Harold's Town and its vicinity

by Freeman Bunting

Cheshunt is the modernised form of the Roman Cestrehunt. A British encampment is said to have existed here, a little to the west of the ancient Ermine Street, upon the track of which the high road now runs. What may be the remains of this exist in a field lying on the west of the churchyard and close to the cemetery. It is also recorded that a bank or earthen wall extended in early times through this parish, which is believed to have been the boundary of the East Saxons. In connection with this bank a curious custom exists. By this, if a copyholder dies seised of land on the west, or above bank, the right of succession falls to the eldest son, but if it is below the bank then to the youngest son.

Cheshunt parish is an extensive one, and its physical aspect wonderfully varied, with a richly wooded undulating surface. There are many elevated situations from 300 to 354 feet above sea-level, and from most of these beautiful views of the surrounding country are to be enjoyed. The district, too, abounds in charming walks, and field paths are numerous. Large areas are devoted to fruit culture, roses, horticultural nurseries, and market gardens. Quite a feature of the place are the extensive rose nurseries of Messrs. Paul and Son in the high road, and these are well worthy a visit by lovers of flowers, to whom they are at all times accessible.

It was to old Pengelly House, which stood in its spacious grounds (now built over), opposite Cheshunt College, that Richard Cromwell, the deposed Protector, retired after his return from the Continent in 1680. He spent his remaining days here as the guest of Sergeant Pengelly, afterwards Chief Baron of the Exchequer, in the name of Clarke.

Cheshunt Great House.

A little beyond the old village, on the road that runs to Goff’s Oak and Cheshunt Common—a beautiful breezy height—stands a structure that strikes one as odd in form and character. It is isolated and alone, occupying a slight elevation, and little conjecture is needed to recognise this as the remains of an old moated mansion. It is known as the Great House, and believed to have originally been the Palace of Waltham, of which ancient records speak, and later served as the seat of the lord of the manor of St. Andrews-le-Motte. The foundations of this structure are by some authorities considered to date back to the fifteenth century, and a well-known local antiquary asserts that it was built 1380–90, as the palace for Cardinal Henry Beaufort, second son of John of Gaunt. The original house was a quadrangular Gothic building, surrounded by a moat, of which traces are clearly discernible. A considerable portion of the structure was demolished in 1801. The Great House long formed a dower palace of the queens of England, and in 1519 was granted to Cardinal Wolsey.

Though it is difficult to be precise and certain about the history of this interesting old building, there can be no doubt about its being a very old foundation, and having formed part of a large and important domestic structure. The great hall, which is the chief feature of the remains, is a very noble apartment, and must belong to a period earlier than the Tudors. It is 27 feet long by 21 feet wide, with a height of 36 feet to the centre of the arched roof. This is supported by ribs of chestnut wrought in the Gothic style. The sides are wainscoted, and the floor is paved with black and white marble. On the walls hang numerous portraits of kings and queens, statesmen, and others, most of them attributed to great masters. All I should like to say about them is that as portraits many are interesting. There are also some examples of chain and other armour and various weapons of war, as well as some curious pieces of furniture, said to have belonged to the mighty Cardinal. Several other apartments are open to visitors, and in one is a quaint rocking-horse reported to have belonged to Charles I., who was, of course, frequently at Theobalds in the days of his childhood. Grim and tragic stories are told about the underground chambers of this old place.

Cheshunt Church.

The handsome old parish church of St. Mary’s, which is seen from the Great House, pleasantly and serenely ensconced amid rich arboreal surroundings, is reached by a path through the fields opposite. Though its foundation dates back to a period anterior to the Conquest, for the church then existing was presented to the canon of the priory of Fulgar, in Brittany, by Constance, daughter of William of Normandy, the present church is a building of the sixteenth century, in the early Perpendicular or Transition style. It was erected by Nicholas Dixon, Clerk of the Pipe Office and Baron of the Exchequer, who held the Rectory, temp. Henry VI. Like many another parish church this of Cheshunt has undergone numerous alterations and additions, ill-planned restorations and barbaric effacements, but the survival is a beautiful building, of noble proportions and of no slight architectural interest. Perhaps its most noticeable feature is the fine stone and flint embattled tower, with an octagon cupola at the south-east corner. This probably replaced the spire which originally graced the tower, and from a date on the lead beneath would seem to have been erected in 1811. From another angle formerly projected a cresset, very similar to that on Hardley Church, near Barnet. The precise use of these old beacon lights on churches seems not to be very clear, but they were probably used as signals of alarm in troublous times.