The Nobility assemble commonly every Evening at the Three Kings Inn where I quarter. There's a very fine Hall well lighted, where they game, club for a Supper, and after Supper dance. Be not scandaliz'd that the Nobility have their Assembly at an Inn, it being one of the best Houses in Germany and the most superb Inn in Europe. There's very good Attendance. I have supp'd at it twice, and one cannot be better accommodated in any House whatsoever.
From Augsbourg I came to Ulm another Imperial City. Tho' all the Country is even, yet 'tis very tiresome to Travellers because of the Pavement of the Causeys; but Thanks to the Snow which has levell'd the Ways, I have not been much incommoded; tho' on the other hand I had like to have been lost in the Snow, such a quantity of it having fallen for two Days that one could not distinguish the Roads. I found my self at a Post-Stage where my Guide, tho' he was a Man that had grown grey in the Business of Postilion upon the same Road, did not know the Way. I was in danger every Moment of tumbling into some Ditch, when just as we entered a certain Valley my Postilion sounded a Horn to give notice to any
Carriages or Horses that might happen to meet us to make way, when a Voice from the Hollow call'd out to the Postilion, Who's that? Stephen? Oh! cry'd the Postilion, Is it you, Christopher? God be thank'd that I met with you! Then turning towards me, he said with an Air of Satisfaction, Now you are out of all Danger, for here's a blind Man that will conduct us to the Place we are going to. I thought the Droll jok'd with me, but we had not gone many Yards farther before I really saw a poor Wretch who could not see, yet offer'd to be my Guide, and promis'd he wou'd conduct me very well. I abandon'd my self to him, and he walk'd so fast before my Chaise that the Horses follow'd him in a gentle Trot till we came safe to the Stage. There he told me that 'twas fifteen Years ago that he lost his Sight by the breaking of an Imposthume in his Eyes, after having suffer'd such horrible Pains for two Months that he bless'd himself for the Loss of his Sight; so that when I ask'd him if he was not very much concern'd at it, he said that at first it made him melancholy for some time, but that he always comforted himself by the Remembrance of the Torture he had undergone in the Loss of his Sight, and that he thought it were much better to be blind and to have his Health than to see, and suffer the Pains that he had endur'd; but that now he was so us'd to his Condition it gave him no Concern. Indeed, when I ask'd him, if he should not be very glad to recover his Sight? he said, Yes, if it were possible; but that if he must undergo the same Pains to recover it as he had felt in the Loss of it, he had rather by a thousand times continue blind. When I told him of my Surprize that he should find out the Way better than those who see, he told me that since he had been blind he came regularly on Sundays and Saints Days to the Place where we were to hear Mass, and that therefore the Road
was become very familiar to him. He added, that he sometimes went alone to beg three or four Leagues from his Village, which was a quarter of a League from the hollow Way where I met with him. I sent the Man away, after giving him some Relief; and could not but admire the divine Providence, which tho' it had afflicted the poor Wretch with what to me seems more terrible than Death, gave him Strength to bear his Misfortune with Patience.
The City of Ulm is not above half as big as Augsbourg, but is much better fortify'd. The Danube which washes its Walls, becomes navigable at this Place, and a Boat goes from hence every Week for Vienna, which is a great Ease to People who are not in a Condition to lay out much Money; for it costs but a Creutzer, which is one Penny a German Mile. Tho' the City of Ulm maintains a very numerous Garison, and is very well fortify'd, and furnished with a good Arsenal, the Elector Maximilian of Bavaria took it by Surprize in 1702, it being a Place necessary for him to secure his Dominions on that side, and to facilitate the Passage of the French Troops that were to join his Army. General Thungen robb'd him of this Conquest the 10th of Sept. 1704, after about a Week's Siege.
Then it was that Ulm became again subject to its Magistrates who are all Lutherans. The Catholics cannot enjoy Offices, but have several Churches. This City drives a great Trade in Linnen, but few of the Gentry live here except the Patricians who are not more sociable than those of Nuremberg and Augsbourg. The Burghers and the Women in particular go dress'd like those at Augsbourg. To see them go to and come from Church is next kin to seeing a Masquerade, and 'tis certainly one of the most diverting Sights in this City, where really I did not give my self time to be tired, for I set out
again the very next Day after I came, and arrived in this Town, where I have now rested my self a couple of Days.
Stutgard lies in the middle of a Valley surrounded with Vineyards. 'Tis pretty large, has Streets broad and strait, but the Houses are of Timber. 'Tis the Capital of the Duchy of Wirtemberg, and was formerly the Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country; but Eberhard-Lewis the present Duke of Wirtemberg established his Seat some Years ago at[116] Ludwigsbourg, a new City and a new Palace of his own building.
The Duke's Castle is an old Structure of Freestone, compos'd of four Piles of Building, flank'd at each Angle by a Tower. The Walls of it are wash'd by Ditches which give it the disagreeable Air of a Prison. The Duchess who is the Duke's Wife, and Sister to the Margrave of Baden-Dourlach, has an Apartment in this Palace. You know that this Princess and her Husband don't live well together. The Prince[117] about twenty Years ago preferr'd a Mistress to her[118], who certainly has neither the Beauty, nor the Merit of the Duchess. The Princess is remarkably patient under the Indifference of a Husband, and the Contempt of the most haughty Rival that ever was. The frequent Visits paid her by her only Son are all the Comfort she has. The Court neglects her, no body dares
to go near her, and whoever pays the Duchess the Respects that are naturally due to her, is sure to incur the merciless Hatred of the Mistress. I may be able perhaps to give you a farther Account of this Princess and her Rival when I have been at Ludwigsbourg, whither I propose to go to-morrow, and where I hope for a Line from you.