I have given you this account of what the Margrave said to me, because I thought it wou'd let you into an Idea of his Character. This Prince, to whom I was introduc'd on the very day of my Arrival here, took the trouble himself to shew me his Palace, and all about it. I thought the Apartments very well laid out, but there is not room enough to lodge the hereditary Prince, who lives in one of the Houses in the Semi-Circle fronting the Palace.
The Pheasant-Walk, which joins to the Castle, is the prettiest thing in the World. 'Tis a very large Inclosure, dispos'd in various Walks planted with Fir-Trees cut in the shape of a Fan. There's a great Basin in the Center always full of wild Ducks. 'Tis encompass'd with four Pavilions, made in the Form of Turkish Tents. Two of the Pavilions are Volarys, and the two others Summer-Houses, with Window-Curtains of Green Cloth. There are Sofas and Couches, after the manner of the Eastern Countries. In this Place of Retirement and Rest
the Margrave spends some Hours every Day, and he is generally accompany'd by some young Ladies whom he teaches Music; so that they perform agreeable Concerts.
The Margrave was in the right to give his House the Name of Charles's Rest, for he leads the most tranquil Life here that can be. Far from being infatuated with vain Grandeur, he has the Charms of it, without the Check and Constraint of it. This Prince is of a very robust Constitution, and tho' he underwent a vast deal of Fatigue in his Youth, he is as fresh-colour'd and as vigorous as if he was but forty Years of Age. He travell'd when he was a young Man into the principal parts of Europe; and during his Father's Life-time was several Years in the Service of Sweden. When he return'd to his Dominions he serv'd in the Army of the Empire on the Upper Rhine, under his Cousin Prince Lewis of Baden. Tho' the Margrave is very fat, yet he uses a great deal of Exercise. He rises in Summer at five o'Clock in the Morning, and walks in his Gardens till the Heat of the Weather obliges him to retire within doors; then he does Business with his Counsellors, or else employs himself in Experiments of Chymistry, and sometimes he draws. He commonly dines at four o'clock, and is attended by Waiting-Women, of whom there are no less than threescore, tho' no more than eight wait upon one Day. These, when the Margrave goes abroad, attend him on horseback, dress'd like Hussurs. The Generality of these Damsels understand Music and Dancing; they also perform Operas at the Theatre of the Palace, and are Musicians of the Chappel. They have all Lodgings in the Palace. After Dinner is over the Margrave grants Audience to his Subjects; and upon particular Days of the Week hears all that come. Few Princes render Justice more speedily, and more punctually. Sometimes he goes a Hunting.
He makes very light Suppers, and retires early to Bed. He delights in Agriculture, and is one of the greatest Florists living. This Prince is never unemploy'd. There are few things which he does not know, and very many which he understands to Perfection. His Conversation is as agreeable as any I know. He speaks several Languages well. His Behaviour is obliging and courteous. He loves Foreigners, treats them with Distinction, and loads them with Civilities. Upon Sundays and Holidays he eats with the Prince his Son, and the Princess his Daughter-in-law. His Table, which is then spread for sixteen Guests, is serv'd with more Delicacy than Profusion.
The hereditary Prince[122], only Son to the Margrave, is pretty short, and has not the Life and Spirit of his Father. He is very complaisant and civil, and seems to me of a good-natur'd Disposition. He has been at Paris, in England, and in Holland, where he marry'd the Daughter of the unfortunate Prince of Nassau, who was drown'd in 1711, as he was passing the Maerdyke to the Hague, to adjust with Frederic I. King of Prussia, such Differences as related to the Succession of the late King William of Great Britain, to which they both laid Claim. The hereditary Princess seems to me to be well behav'd; and she makes very handsome Entertainments. The Court assembles at her House every day, viz. at Noon, and at five o'clock in the Evening; and there they dine, game, and sup. Foreigners are very well receiv'd there, and both the Ladies and Gentlemen are very civil and complaisant.
The Grand Marshal, and his Brother the Great Huntsman, are Persons capable of making a Figure with Distinction in the greatest Courts.
The first marry'd a legitimated Daughter of the Margrave.
The Baron d'Ixter, President of the Regency, and Chief of the Council, is a Person of signal Merit, and capable of any Business, be it ever so great.
Generally speaking the Margrave's Court is extremely well regulated. This Prince is fond of the Nobility, and seeks to do them a Pleasure. He has none but Persons of Quality in his Service. 'Tis great pity that this Court does not come together again. The Margravine, who is Sister to the Duke of Wirtemberg, resides at Dourlach, and never comes to Carlsrouhe but when 'tis a Holiday, or when some foreign Prince is there. This Princess is actually very much indispos'd, so that I don't think I shall have the Honour of kissing her Hand. The Margrave also educates at his Court three young Princes his Nephews, the Sons of his Brother. They are under the Government of the Baron de Gemming, who takes very great Care of their Education.