From Landau I pass'd to Brhousel, with an Intention to pay my respects to the Cardinal de Schonborn Bishop of Spire who resides there, but I did not succeed better there than at Rastadt; for his Eminency excus'd himself from seeing me because he was going a hunting, and put me off till next day; but I did not think it worth while to wait, what had happen'd to me at the Court of Baden being too fresh in my Memory. I was afraid of the
same Fate at Brhousel, where I lay at such sorry Quarters that I cou'd not avoid catching Cold, my Lodging-Room being without Glass, and be famish'd into the bargain, there being nothing to eat: Besides, my Landlord told me that the Cardinal made even those People who came to him upon Business dance attendance for three or four days. I said to my self therefore that he had much more reason to make me wait, who came to his Court out of meer Curiosity. I resolv'd therefore, as any Gentleman ought to have done in the like case, and took the opportunity of the Cardinal's Absence to go and view the outside of his Palace. 'Tis a great Structure not yet entirely finish'd, which the Cardinal has hitherto carry'd on from the very Foundation; but if I must be sincere with you, all these Works, considerable as they are, have been form'd upon pitiful Plans. It has cost a very large Sum of Money; and I fancy that in the time of the ancient Teutonics, it wou'd have been reckon'd a very fine Structure. The chief Beauty of it lies in its Situation; for a great Variety of agreeable Objects are discovered from the Apartments. The Gardens are also so new that one can scarce know the Plan of 'em; it seems to me that they are not of an extraordinary Taste, and that they wou'd be much more suitable for a private Man than for a Sovereign.
The Cardinal de Schonborn is a keen Sportsman. He has Game enough in his own Bishoprick, for the Country so abounds with all sorts that the Fields are ruin'd by the Deer. The Peasants are so hard put to it to preserve their Corn that they are oblig'd to watch it day and night. The Cardinal often makes Hunting-Matches for the Stag and wild Boar, in which they kill hundreds; at such times the Peasants are oblig'd to take a certain quantity of Meat, for which they pay so much a
Pound, according to a Price that is regulated. The Bishoprick of Spire is one of the fruitfullest Provinces in Germany, but the Inhabitants are extremely poor; for their Provisions lie on their hands, and they have scarce wherewithal to pay the great Taillies due to their Sovereigns.
The Dignity of the Bishop of Spire is elective, as are all the Bishopricks of Germany which are not in the hereditary Dominions of the House of Austria. The Bishop is Sovereign of the Country, but the City of Spire has particular Privileges, as have all the Imperial Cities. You know it was at Spire that the Emperor Charles V. establish'd the Imperial Chamber, which is as it were the Parliament of the Empire. The French having destroy'd Spire when they ravag'd the Palatinate, the Chamber or supreme Tribunal was transferred to Wetzlar in Wetteravia, where indeed it seem'd to be more in the Center of Germany, and secur'd from all manner of Insult.
Damien-Hugo Count de Schonborn Cardinal, is at this present Bishop of Spire, and Co-adjutor of Constance. He is also grand Commander of the Teutonic-Order. He was heretofore a Member of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and his Plenipotentiary to the Circle of Lower Saxony. Clement XI. of the Albani Family honour'd him with the Purple. He is descended of a Family in which Merit has happen'd to be back'd by Fortune. The Cardinal's Father was the first Count of it. He was also one of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and Brother to Lotharius-Francis Elector of Mentz and Bishop of Bamberg. The Cardinal has actually a Brother who is Elector of Triers, another who is Bishop of Wurtzbourg and Bamberg, whom I have mention'd to you upon other occasions; and lastly, a third who is a Counsellor of State[130] to the Emperor,
and is now the Head of the Family. Messieurs de Schonborn had formerly an Elector of Mentz in their Family, who was at the same time Bishop of Wurtzbourg, but that Prince left them no great Estate; so that they were not very rich when Lotharius-Francis, Uncle to them all, was chose Elector of Mentz. But this Prince procur'd them both Wealth and Honours, and render'd the Count de Schonborn, who is Counsellor of State to the Emperor, one of the richest Noblemen in Germany.
From Brhousel to Heidelberg there's one of the finest Countries in the World, planted with Fruit, and especially Walnut-Trees, which bring in a great Revenue.
The City of Heidelberg, upon the Necker, is very much pent up by that River, and a Chain of Hills, so that 'tis not near so broad as 'tis long. This City is the Capital of the Lower Palatinate, and was formerly the Residence of the Electors. Here is a University which was founded in 1346, by Robert Prince Palatine, who was chose King of the Romans. No Town has smarted more by the Scourge of War. Since the Disgrace of Frederic Elector Palatine, whom the Bohemians chose for their King, it has been taken, plunder'd, or burnt four times. In 1622, the Emperor's General Tilly put 500 Palatines in it to the Sword, and at the same time the Emperor carry'd off the famous Library, which he gave in part to Urban VIII. who caused it to be placed in the Vatican, where 'tis still to be seen. In 1634, Heidelberg was besieg'd twice. John de Werth took it for Lewis XIV. but not being able to carry the Castle he retir'd. Not many days after, the Marshals de Force and Brezé forc'd the Quarters of the Germans, and took both the Town and Castle. The French took this City a third time in 1688, and again in 1693, which
was the last time, Sword in hand; at what time they committed Cruelties shocking to remember, and of which there are woful Marks still left in Heidelberg, and all the Towns in the Palatinate. This City was beginning to recover it self by the Elector's residing there, when it brought a more heavy Disgrace upon it self than all the Misfortunes it had suffer'd by the War. The Case was thus: