LETTER XX.
SIR,Manheim, March 17, 1730.
In going from Heidelberg to Manheim we leave the Necker on the right hand, but keep almost all the way by the side of that River. 'Tis three Leagues from one City to the other, over a fruitful Plain. Manheim lies between the Rhine and the Necker, in a marshy Country, which has always been reckon'd very unwholesome. About fourscore Years ago this City was but a Village. Frederic Elector Palatine, who was chose King of Bohemia, caus'd it to be fortify'd, and built a Castle or Citadel there, which he call'd Fredericsbourg. At the same time a Town was built, of which all the Streets run parallel, the chief that passes thro' the middle of the Town was planted with Trees after the manner of Holland. But the French having taken Manheim in 1693, raz'd it to the ground,
and by the Treaty of Nimeguen it was stipulated that Manheim should be demolished; which was done accordingly. John-William of Newbourg, the last Elector, began again to fortify Manheim, according to the Plans laid down by the famous Cohorn; but those Works were suspended, so that no more than two Bastions and a Courtain were finish'd. When the present Elector Charles-Philip came to live at Manheim he caus'd those Works to be resumed which his Brother had discontinued, and to be carried on with such Diligence that in a few Years he put the Place in a state of Defence[131]. The Fortifications are all fac'd with Brick; and Manheim is now one of the best Places in all Germany.
This City has three fine Gates, of which that of the Necker is the most magnificent, and the best adorned; in which one sees beautiful Basso-relievos, after a Plan very happily executed. This Gate opens towards a long and spacious Street, at the end of which stands the Elector's Palace, one of the largest and most substantial Buildings in Europe. It were to be wish'd indeed that the Architecture had been more regular: Never had any Architect more Advantage, for he built it new from the Foundation, was not stinted for want of room, and as he set no Limits to his Expence, I should have thought that a masterly hand might have produc'd something curious. Nevertheless there are Faults in the Building which are shocking to such as have the least Skill in Architecture; insomuch that they who have a Taste for that Science are sorry that a Building which has been so expensive has been no better conducted. The Situation of this Palace is indeed very fine, at the end of the City, and of a very noble large Street, which like all the rest runs in a strait Line. The Palace, which has a great Square
before it, consists of a large number of Lodging-Rooms, with a great high Pavilion in the middle, and two advanc'd Wings, with ample Pavilions at the ends; where two other very extensive Wings rise on both sides that are likewise terminated by Pavilions, behind which there are other Lodging-Rooms. The inside of the Palace is form'd by two great Courts, which are to be separated by an open Gallery or Terrass, the Model of which is very much adorned with Architecture; but I can't think it will look well when 'tis done. The Apartments are adorn'd with fine noble Floors and Cielings, and have the finest Prospect in the World to Spire, Franckendahl, Worms, and all the Country in general, as far as the Mountains of Alsace, which consists wholly of Towns and Villages. All this fine fruitful Country is water'd by the Rhine, which passes behind the Palace of Manheim, and washes its Fortifications. Upon this beautiful Canal there are to be the Gardens of the Palace, for which there are intended two Courtains and a Bastion.
'Tis almost inconceivable how the Elector was able to get all the Works about Manheim finished in so few Years; for in short I remember to have seen Partridges where there are now Houses and Palaces. The whole Town is laid out in a most regular and charming manner; and 'tis without dispute one of the prettiest Towns in Europe. 'Tis pity the Houses are not higher: The reason they alledge for it is, that Manheim is a fortify'd Town, and that by consequence the Houses ought to be low. I know not what Authority there is for this, since Strasbourg, Metz, Luxembourg, and Lisle, are Places of much more Importance than Manheim, and yet the Houses are as high there as they are in other Towns.
The Palace is commodious, and yet, for what reason I know not, the Elector does not live
in it[132]. Some say that he has been told of so many Faults in it as have quite put him out of conceit with it, and others that 'tis because a certain Astrologer prophesy'd he would die there; but I am apt to believe that the latter Reason is no more than a Joke, and I dare to say that the Elector is too wise a Man to credit it. Mean time this Prince dwells in a House belonging to a Jew, to which several other private Houses are join'd; but for all that the Lodgings are very bad.