Florence; the second the Ceremony of Cosmo's Coronation, and the third the same Cosmo in an antique triumphant Car making his pompous Entry into Sienna, which was submitted to his Government. Ferdinand I. de Medicis when he erected this Statue to the Honour of his Father, employ'd in the Direction of it the famous John Bologna, who has very well answer'd the Opinion that had been conceiv'd of him.
In the Great Duke's Gallery near the Square, I saw the greatest Curiosities, both among the Antients and Moderns. A Busto of Alexander the Great, the famous Statue of Venus, cut by Apollodorus, with those of the Emperors and Empresses of Rome, and the greatest Personages of former Centuries; the best Originals of the greatest Painters; and a thousand uncommon things, such as Diamonds, Rubies, Pearls, Emeralds, Saphirs, Topazes, Amber, Porcellain, Crystal, Porphyry, Coral, Marble, and Granite, the Particulars of which wou'd form a Volume. They are actually engraving on Plates, and several Persons of Quality are contributing to the Expence of this fine Work, which is considerable, and for which excellent Designers are employ'd. This wou'd have been worthy of the Great Duke, and it seems to me that this Prince when he sees his Family extinct, and his Estate pass into the hands of Foreigners, ought at least to eternize the Glory of his Ancestors by publishing an Inventory of the immense Wealth which they have acquired, and transmitted to their Posterity.
Of all the Churches in Italy there are none more magnificent as to the outside than the Dome of Milan, and the Cathedral of Florence, both which are entirely lin'd with Marble of various Colours. A Citizen of Florence, who pretended to know the History of this City perfectly well, assur'd me that its Cathedral was built out of the Impost of
five Sous which had been laid upon every Piece of Cloth that was then sold at Florence; but I believe you may without Breach of Charity take this for a Story.
Over against the Cathedral is the magnificent Baptistery, to which there's an Entrance thro' three Gates of Brass, so artfully wrought that Michael Angelo said they were good enough to be the Gates of Paradise.
St. Laurence's Chapel, which is not yet finish'd, is the Admiration of all Connoisseurs, and is design'd to be the Place for the Burial of the Great Dukes, whose Remains are to be deposited in a Mausoleum of wonderful Workmanship, adorn'd with precious Stones. 'Tis 150 years ago that this Chapel has been building, and yet it wants two Thirds of being finish'd. If it were lawful to criticise the Conduct of Princes, I must say it again, that the Great Duke, who sees that his Greatness and his Family must end with him, ought to put the last hand to this Monument of the Magnificence of the Medicis: For can he hope, that if he himself neglects to transmit the Lustre of his Family to Posterity, his Successors will think to do it, who are nothing to him, or at least but very little? But such is the Humour of John Gaston Great Duke of Tuscany; he is so indifferent and unconcern'd about every thing, that he sees Foreigners dispose of his Dominions, and nominate his Successor, and the Courtiers ready to abandon him and to worship the said Successor; and yet the Prospect, how disagreeable soever it may be, does not seem to give him any Uneasiness: And he said some days ago, after he had sign'd his Last Will and Testament, declaring Don Carlos Infante of Spain his Successor, that he had just got a Son and Heir by a Dash of his Pen, which he had not been able to get in thirty four years Marriage.
Thus, Sir, I have given all you will have of me this time touching Florence, where I cou'd stay but a few days, and then made no Acquaintance, having only been taken up in seeing the Curiosities of this City. At my Return from Rome I propose to come hither again, and make some stay in order to get a little Knowledge of the Court; and then you shall be inform'd of every Remark that I make.
From Florence I went and din'd at Castilloncello, and lay at Sienna a City in the Duchy of Tuscany, to which Cosmo I. de Medicis made it subject, not without great Resistance from the Siennois. The City which is both an Archbishoprick and an University, is very pleasantly situate, and enjoys a very good Air. 'Tis said that Italian is spoke here with more Purity than in any other Town in Italy. It seem'd to me to want Inhabitants, for I went thro' several Streets and did not meet a Soul. 'Tis said that a great many of the Nobility are settled in Sienna, and that Strangers are sure to meet with a civil Reception here, but as I staid no more than one day, I had only a cursory View of the Town. The Cathedral appear'd to me to be a great and noble Building lin'd with Marble. The Great Duke's Palace is ancient, but commodious. It has a Tower which is look'd upon as a singular piece of Architecture. The Great Princess[165] Violante of Bavaria is Governess of Sienna. She liv'd formerly in this City, and was mightily belov'd in it; but she has resided for some time at Florence. The Square which is before the Palace is oval, and hollow in the Middle, so that it may be laid under-water like the Square Navona at Rome.
From Sienna to Viterbo the Road is extremely bad, I passed the Mountain of Radifocani, situate in one of the vilest Countries in all Italy. At the top of the Mountain there's a Castle, where a Garison