first, and then his Master's the King's; and I question whether I do him any Injustice if I say that he was the King of Prussia's Minister, much more than the King of Poland's.
This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you concerning Count Flemming. I have told you very nakedly what I always thought of him, and I don't believe that I have mistaken his Character. Be this as it will, my Decision is of too little weight to do either Good or Harm; the Publick will always judge of him according to their best Information. I proceed now with the Narrative of my Travels.
After I had set out from Dresden I went to Altenbourg in hopes of finding the Court of Gotha there, which I had been told, intended to spend the Remainder of the fine Season there; but it was set out the Night before for Gotha, where I hope to see it to-morrow.
The City of Altenbourg is the Capital of a County of that Name, of which the Duke of Saxe-Gotha is the Sovereign. This Prince has a Palace there which makes a handsome appearance, but I shall say nothing more of it because I neglected to go and see it. The Peasants of the County of Altenbourg are the richest in Germany, and may almost vye with those of Holland. I have been assur'd that some of them have given 20 or 30000 Crowns in Marriage with their Daughters; and like the Dutch Peasants, they take care to match them to none but the Sons of substantial Farmers.
As I left Altenbourg I came upon a fine Causey with a Row of Trees on each side, which brought me to the Frontiers of the County. I afterwards fell into very bad Roads all the way to Leipsic, where I stay'd but a very few Hours, and proceeded the same day to Mersebourg. This City was much more considerable formerly than now. It was the
See of a Bishop, but was seculariz'd by the Treaty of Passaw in favour of the House of Saxony. Its Situation is charming, with Gardens and Meadows all round it, and its Walls are wash'd by the River Sala. The great Church which was formerly a Cathedral is a Gothic Building, where there is a stately Tomb of the Emperor Rodolph of Schwartzbourg, who died after he had lost one Hand in a Battle he fought with the Emperor Henry IV. with whom he was Competitor. This Prince a few Moments before he expir'd, took up his Hand that was cut off, and holding it up to those who were about him, said to them, Behold this Hand; 'tis the same that I lifted up when I promis'd Faith and Allegiance to my Emperor and Lord; but by your Advice and Instigation I have not kept my Promise to him, for which you will one day give an account to God. Some time after this unfortunate Prince's Death, the Emperor Henry IV. coming to Mersebourg and taking a view of Rodolphus's Tomb, of which he admir'd the Magnificence, certain Flatterers told him that the Tomb ought to be destroy'd as too pompous for a Rebel; but the Emperor scorning such a pitiful Revenge, made answer, Wou'd to God that all my Enemies were thus pompously interr'd.
The City of Mersebourg is the Residence of a Duke of the House of Saxony, who is Sovereign of all the Country that formerly constituted the Bishoprick, which enables him to keep a splendid Court[71]. The next day after my Arrival I had the Honour to pay him my Compliments, and had a very satisfactory Reception. The Prince conducted me into a Hall which was hung with Bass-Viols from the Bottom to the Top, in the same manner as an Arsenal is with Helmets and Breast-Plates. In the middle of the Hall there was a Viol which was
distinguish'd from the rest. It reach'd up to the very Cieling, and there was a Ladder set, which such as had the Curiosity to take a particular View of it were oblig'd to ascend, for surely it was the most stately Instrument of the kind that ever was made. The Duke made me take particular notice of it, and was pleas'd with the Admiration which I express'd of it. He regal'd me also with some Airs upon another Bass-Viol which he call'd his Favorite, and which was but one fourth part as big as the other.
After this Concert I din'd with the Duke and Duchess. This Princess is the Daughter of the late Prince of Nassau-Idstein, than whom there cannot be a more amiable Lady. She has an Air of Mildness, Goodness and Prudence diffused over all her Features; and her Wit is of the same Stamp as her Beauty, amiable without Parade and Ostentation. Some of her Courtiers assur'd me, that her Mind is as charming as her Person. If that be true, which I am loth to doubt of, this Princess deserves a more splendid Fortune than what she enjoys.