The Prince Abbot has a Grand Marshal, a Master of the Horse, a Marshal of the Court, several Privy and Aulic Counsellors, a Number of Gentlemen, a Company of Horse-Guards well cloathed and well mounted, a Regiment of Foot Guards, eight Pages, a Number of Footmen, and several Sets of Horses. He gives a rich Livery, and in a word, his Houshold is spruce and magnificent. There are very few Sovereigns in Germany whose Table is better served; for there is plenty of every thing, particularly delicious Wines, of which they tipple to such Excess that in a very little time they are not capable of distinguishing their Liquor. There are, I believe, the hardest Drinkers here in Europe; and I being on the other hand but a Milksop, thought that Fulde was not a Country for me to pitch my Tent in. I dined with the Prince, went home drunk to my Quarters, slept sound, and next day
set out for Wurtzbourg, where I am happily arriv'd after having gone through such horrible bad Ways, and met with such dismal Lodging, that I wish my Enemies were but condemned to travel this Road four times a Year.
Here I make myself amends for the Mortification which I met with coming hither. Wurtzbourg is a considerable City though not very large. The Main divides it into two Parts. It is the Residence of the Prince Bishop of Wurtzbourg Duke of Franconia. The Person who now enjoys that great Dignity is Christopher-Francis de Houtten[80]. He was elected by the Chapter to succeed John Philip Francis Count de Schonborn, who was one of the greatest and most magnificent Prelates that perhaps ever fill'd the Episcopal See of Wurtzbourg. This Prince, in the five Years time that he has been Bishop, has done more things for the Embellishment of Wurtzbourg than ten of his Predecessors put together. He has furnished one Part of the Town with new Fortifications, and has laid the Basis of a stately Palace, which will be one of the greatest, the compleatest and most regular Fabrics that we have in Germany; he having for that end consulted the most skilful Architects, and sent for the most celebrated Sculptors from Italy. As he was a passionate Admirer of the Arts and Sciences, and perfectly understood them, especially Architecture; he chose the best Parts of all the Designs that were presented to him, and from them he compos'd the Plan of the Work, which was executed with such diligence that in four Years time two thirds of the Building were rooft. His unexpected Death put a stop for a while to this Great Work. The
present Bishop took it in hand again, but after having made considerable Alterations in those great and magnificent Projects, the Work advances so slowly that when it will be finished no body knows.
The deceased Bishop Schonborn has also caused a Chapel to be built near the Metropolitan Church, which he has lined with very uncommon Marble brought for the purpose from Italy at a very great Expence. Brass, Gilding, and every thing that can render a Chapel superb, has been employed in it in a very curious manner. This stately Edifice is as yet imperfect, and will require great Sums to finish it. As it was designed for the Burial-Place of the Bishop and his Family, it is to be presum'd that the House of Schonborn, now so rich and so powerful, will not suffer a Monument to lie unfinish'd which is to perpetuate the remembrance of its Grandeur.
The Great Hospital founded by a Bishop whose Name was Julius, is worth seeing. 'Tis a stately Building, which looks more like the Palace of a Prince than a Hospital. Four hundred Persons of both Sexes are maintained in it. There are two fine Halls which are particularly made use of upon Holy Thursday. In the one, the Bishop performs the Ceremony of washing the Feet of the Poor, who are afterwards sumptuously feasted in it; and in the other, he regales his Chapter, and all his Family.
The Castle stands upon an Eminence on the other side of the River which we pass over a Stone Bridge, adorn'd like that of St. Angelo at Rome, with twelve fine Statues representing so many Saints. This Castle is a strong Place, and entirely commands the Town. The Form of it is quite irregular, it consisting of several Buildings erected by several Bishops. Those Prelates always liv'd in it, till the last, who, while he was building a new Palace in the Town, lodged in a neighbouring Gentleman's
House, from whence he could see how the Work went on. The Apartments of the old Castle are spacious and noble. I found in them all that Furniture with which they were adorn'd for the Reception of the Archduchess Mary-Elizabeth, when that Princess came to Wurtzbourg in her way to the Government of the Netherlands. I have not seen richer Furniture at the Palace of any Prince of the Empire.
In this Castle there are two things that are well worth seeing; the Arsenal and the Vault; the one full of all the Stores invented by Mars and Bellona, for the Destruction of Mankind, and the other furnish'd with every thing to satiate the Thirst of an Army of Drunkards. If ever you come hither and should have the Curiosity to visit these Magazines of Mars and Bacchus, I advise you to begin with the Arsenal, especially if you can get some Courtier to go with you; for these Gentlemen, tho' very civil, think, that the least thing which a Foreigner ought to do for them is to forfeit his Reason to them in this Vault. I am sure, I speak by dear Experience. Three days ago I told the Bishop that I had a mind to see the Castle. This Prince was so complaisant as to order one of his Gentlemen to go with me. My honest Companion fearing, 'tis like, that a Conversation tete-a-tete would be too melancholy, chose two Topers to bear us Company, whom Silenus would not have disown'd for his Children. Being a stranger to the Virtues for which those Gentlemen were eminent, I put my self entirely under their Direction without the least Apprehension of my Misfortune. When they had shewed me the Apartments, the Arsenal, Fortifications, and every thing, they carried me at last into the Vault, which I found illuminated like a Chapel wherein I was to lie in State; and indeed, my Funeral Obsequies were perform'd in Pomp, for the Glasses served
instead of Bells, and Torrents of Wine gush'd out instead of Tears: At length, after the Service was over, two of the Prince's Heydukes carry'd me to a Coach, and from thence to Bed; that was my Tomb. Yesterday I rose again, but scarce know at this Moment whether I am quite come to myself. 'Tis true that this does not give me much Concern, for ever since I have been here, I have followed the laudable Custom of getting drunk twice a day. You perceive that I am improv'd by my Travels, and that I am apt enough to learn the pretty Manners of the Countries where I make any Stay. I fancy that you will find me very much alter'd for the better. There is nothing that accomplishes a Man so much as travelling; judge you of this by the Life which I lead here.