The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER XI.

SIR,Prague, November 15, 1729.

I have now been a Month in this City, yet it seems but as a Day; for I find infinite Amusements here, and a thousand things that I like, only I want your Company. The City of Prague is ancient, and has been time out of mind, the Seat of the Kings of Bohemia. 'Tis without dispute one of the Biggest Towns in Europe. 'Tis encompass'd with Ramparts, and as well fortified as a Place of that Extent can be, and commanded by several Hills, which 'tis impossible to level. This City is divided by the River Molde or Muldaw, into two Parts, viz. Old Prague and Little Prague; and during the Course of the last Century, it suffer'd the greatest Cruelties that a City can possibly undergo in a time of War. The Archduke Leopold Bishop of Passau surpriz'd and plunder'd the lesser Part, and would have done the same by the old Town, if the Emperor Matthias King of Hungary had not come in time to relieve it. Nine Years after this, Prague was again plunder'd by those who were most concerned to preserve it; I mean the Imperialists, who, after the Battle at Weissenberg, near Prague, wherein they defeated Frederic Elector Palatine whom a Party had chose King of Bohemia, enter'd the City, and carried off inestimable Booty. Prague was used no better in 1631, by the Elector of Saxony, after that Prince made himself Master of Bohemia. The Great Walstein of so much Note for

his Glorious Actions, and his Tragical Exit, recover'd Bohemia from the Saxon in 1632, and took Prague by Storm. Some time after this the Swedes attack'd it, and took the lesser Prague; but could not force the old Town, it was so courageously defended by the Students and Burghers. The Swedes thereupon retired, and carry'd off immense Wealth. At length the Peace of Westphalia restored Tranquillity to Bohemia and the City of Prague, which has been subject ever since to the House of Austria; and the Kingdom which before was Elective, had the Mortification to become Hereditary.

The Situation of Prague is pleasant in the midst of Gardens and fine Fields, and 'tis adorn'd with noble Buildings, of which the Houses of the Counts Tschernin and Sternberg are as fine as any. The Furniture of the former is extremely rich; there is a Gallery adorned with excellent Pictures, a Cabinet of choice Porcellane with entire Services of the finest Indian Lacca; and another Room full of fine Arms and other Curiosities. Count Sternberg's House is not so large, yet better contriv'd; and in Rome it self would pass for a fine Palace. But there is one built by the late Count de Gallasch, who died Viceroy at Naples, that bears the Bell above all. You know that Nobleman was prodigiously rich and magnificent. He spared no Cost in his Buildings. 'Tis pity the House is not well situate, but it certainly would be so, if the young Count de Gallasch was of the same Way of Thinking with his Father, who intended to have had five or six old Hovels belonging to it pull'd down to the ground, by which means he would have had a fine Square.

The Convents of both Sexes are another Ornament of this Great City. The House of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent. They have lately caused a Church to be built, which is one of the best adorned that I have

seen out of Italy. If you were but here, we would go together and see all those Buildings. I would carry you first of all to the Cathedral, which is in lesser Prague, on the Top of the Hill call'd Ratschin, and from thence we would go and take a View of the Castle which is upon the same Hill.

The Metropolitan Church is a very antient Structure, which was burnt down by the Swedes, and is only rebuilt in part. Its Magnificence and Beauty consist in the thickness of its Walls and Arches; and the Architecture of this Church is such, that I fancy it would appear Gothic to the very Goths themselves. 'Tis in this Cathedral that the Kings and Queens of Bohemia are consecrated. The Archbishop of Prague's Office is to perform the Unction upon both; but the Abbess of St. George, whose Abbey is also upon the Hill of Ratschin, is to place the Crown upon the Head of the Queen, and in this Function she is assisted by the Wives of the Great Officers of the Crown.