All the other Buildings are neat, the Streets broad and airy, and a great many have Canals. ’Tis pity but this Town had a greater Number of Inhabitants, who had Estates to live upon; for it swarms with the meaner Sort of People, all Carders of Wool, or Makers of Cloth, who are not very well to pass, the Manufactures being very much decay’d, since the Importation of Cloth from Holland has been prohibited by some of its neighbouring States.
The University seems to be in a more thriving Way. There are actually three great Men for Professors, Vitriarius for the Civil Law, Boerhaave for Physic, and s’Gravesande for the Mathematics. The first is a Gentleman of so much Learning, and has so happy a Way of expressing himself, that he draws all the young Nobility of Bohemia and Austria to Leyden. Of all the Protestant Universities, those of England excepted, I know of none where the Students are more regular and retir’d than they are at Leyden: Nor is there any Place more proper for Students, who are at the Fountain of Literature, and may live here how they please, without being obliged to Profusion: For the Students here don’t value themselves upon the Richness of their Cloaths, as they do in Germany; and many of them seldom put off their Morning Gowns, which is also the favourite Dress of the Burghers; so that the first time I came thro’ this City, I really thought there had been some epidemical Disease in it: For all the People appearing in the Streets in an Undress, look like so many Patients. The famous Chamber of Anatomy has been so much describ’d, that I forbear to speak of it. The Catholics have Churches here, up one Pair of Stairs, as they have in all the Towns of the Seven Provinces. Some of these are very rich, and of good Families.
The Passage from Leyden to the Hague, whether by Land, or by the Canal, is equally pleasant, on account of the beautiful Country-Seats, and fine Gardens, that are to be seen, which way soever you look; so that these three Leagues seem as nothing at all.
The Hague, which is called a Village, because ’tis not inclosed, and sends no Deputies to the Assembly of the States of the Province, is nevertheless a better Place than many great Cities which have that Privilege, and is certainly one of the finest in Europe. The States General, as well as those of this Province, assemble here, and ’tis the Place of Residence for the foreign Ministers. Heretofore the Counts of Holland lived here. Since the Establishment of the Republic, the Stadtholders have kept their Court here; and the Hague, as much a Village as it is, may be reckoned for the Capital of the whole United Provinces. The Inhabitants are more genteel, more sociable, and in every respect more conversable than in the other Parts of Holland. The Nobility here are esteemed, and Merit does not go for nothing. The Ladies have a good Air, and dress well, and have something more engaging than mere Beauty.
The Houses are more spacious and better built, tho’ perhaps not so magnificent as those at Amsterdam; and here are some Palaces with Gardens.
The Palace which they call the Court, was anciently the Residence of its Sovereigns, and afterwards of the Stadtholders. This is a great Fabric, consisting of several Structures, which form a very irregular Tower. There meet the States General, the Council of State, the States of Holland, the Council of Nobles, and that of the Gecommitteer de Raden, or Deputy Counsellors of the Province. Their High Mightinesses hold their Conferences in two large magnificent Rooms, one
of which is called the Chamber of the Truce, because the Truce for twelve Years was there concluded with Spain. ’Tis in this Chamber that the States give Audience to the Foreign Ministers. There is also another great Room in the Palace, in which are hung up all the Colours and Standards taken from the Enemies of the Republic. Adjoining to the Court, is the Palace or Hotel for lodging the Ambassadors during the three Days that the State defrays their Expence. It was built by Prince Maurice of Nassau, after he returned from his Government at Brasil, and he adorned it with all the Rarities that are the Production of the Indies. But all these Things, as well as the Palace, were consumed by the Flames in 1707, on the very Day that the Duke of Marlborough set out for the Army. Nevertheless, as only the Timber Work was burnt, some private Persons who had a Mortgage upon this House, afterwards caused it to be rebuilt as it now stands, which tho’ ’tis not very large, yet makes a good Appearance.
The Palace of the Old Court belonging to the King of Prussia, because it fell to Frederic I. by Inheritance from King William III. is a large Pile of Building, at the Bottom of a Court, formed by two advanced Wings, which are supported by high Arches, and joined together by an Iron Balustrade, which separates the Court from the Street. The Apartments are large and commodious, and there’s a very fine Hall, adorned with Paintings by good Hands. To this Palace there is a large Garden, which was very much embellished by the late King of Prussia, who gave Leave for all People of Fashion to see it; but ’tis now neglected. The King’s Minister, and the[104] Count de Hompesch, General of the States Cavalry,
have Lodgings there. I could name several other Houses of Consequence to you, which I pass over in Silence, for fear of swelling my Letter with Things that are needless.