of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the Lateran Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour getting along. ’Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals; if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from me again before Lent. I am, &c.


LETTER XXXI.

SIR,Rome, March 10, 1731

I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate for it; for Clement XII. has been continually teaz’d upon that Score from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is the same here as at other Courts, and I assure you, the Difficulty of obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all Countries, and all Courts are alike.

Having made my Application to Signior Acquaviva, the Major Domo, who officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] Doria, then indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order’d me to be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the

Door, according to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair, ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cushion of red Velvet. As I enter’d the Chamber, Signior Acquaviva bid me kneel, which I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach’d him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel’d again, and receiv’d the Pope’s Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming up close to the Pope, I kneel’d again, and receiv’d a third Blessing, all which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask’d me many Questions, and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the Number of Petitioners, I saw the Pope’s Countenance change; his Smiles were turn’d into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather have my Room than my Company. But being appriz’d beforehand, that his Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Petitions, I proceeded without omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber, I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon; for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun’d, and therefore I will gratify him in his own Way.

Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than I did, unless they are

Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the Pope’s Toe. The Prince Regent of Waldeck, who was here not long ago, went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv’d in the same manner as the Princes of Brunswic had been formerly: He waited some Moments in the Antichamber, and without being oblig’d to leave his Sword and Hat, as those of his Retinue were, he was introduc’d by the Major Domo to the Pope, who receiv’d him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as he enter’d, nor did the Pope, who ask’d him several Questions, and was inform’d that he was a Lutheran, give him his Blessing: Before he withdrew, the Prince desir’d the Pope, that he would give him leave to introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the last Degree, neither kneel’d, nor kiss’d the Pope’s Foot. At Geneva indeed he deserv’d to have his Statue erected, tho’ here his Politeness was call’d in question; but as for the Prince of Waldeck, all Rome was charm’d with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five Months here, and liv’d handsomely. He apply’d himself to the Knowledge of Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho’ not so large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover’d a very great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for Germany if all its Princes were like him.