But as for what remains of the Character of the Romans, I must tell you ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all Countries, and I know some Romans of as strict Probity as the honestest Teutonics. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth, where all the People are virtuous? The Italians are in general accus’d of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there’s no Nation where the Ladies have more Freedom than here. ’Tis possible that some of the Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as to the People of Quality, I don’t think them any more liable to that Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou’d say as much in their Vindication as
to their being too much given to Niggardliness; but the Fact is too well known, and ’tis the original Sin of almost all the Italians, particularly of the Romans, from the highest to the lowest; and ’tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus’d also of being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry’d out against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some that have receiv’d Affronts, so good-natur’d as to forget them. ’Tis true, that the Populace are very apt to make use of the Stilletto, but this is owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder for the first Time is condemn’d to the Gallies; tho’ in some Cases indeed he is only banish’d from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then, after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to Rome. They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money. If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou’d have more Crimes perhaps committed among us than there are at Rome, where, when all is said and done, we don’t hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of Robberies; and tho’ there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls here in the Night, I shou’d make no Scruple to go from one End of the City to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou’d be most afraid of wou’d be the being assassinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind are much oftner
committed among the Dregs of the People, than among Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such an Accident to any Person of Note.
I happen’d not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven o’Clock, ’twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People stirring in the Streets. I pass’d thro’ the Street del Corso, and just as I came to the Square of Colonna, near the House of Cardinal Imperiali, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance behind the other: As the former brush’d close by me, I heard a Pistol go off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming; but nobody troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after; at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50 Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But ’tis really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou’d serve as a Place of Retreat for a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour’s Blood. This is an Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient Privileges. In the last Pope’s Time, Alberoni propos’d to the other Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he said with Indignation, ‘Since ’tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain wou’d take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge to the Church of which I am Protector: I assure you, that were the whole
Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to Justice, I wou’d do all in my Power to promote his Escape.’ ’Tis said, that Clement XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard to Assassins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People, and the Homage of the Mob.
Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so establish’d, yet there is not a City in the World where God is better serv’d, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this Purpose there’s a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it almost every Day, who are there lodg’d and taken care of for three Days, and then dismiss’d with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv’d, the Men by the Cardinals, and the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of Rome.
Divine Service is perform’d with very great Pomp in all the Churches, but particularly in the Pope’s Chapel. Were I to give you an Account of all the Ceremonies therein observ’d, it wou’d take me up another Day. I will, in due Time and Place, give you a Narrative of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, which, tho’ I was present at once before, during the Pontificate of Clement XI. I am very desirous of seeing again, that I may be the better enabled to relate them to you hereafter. I am, &c.
