LETTER XXXIII.
SIR,Rome, Sept. 5, 1731.
Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported to me; if I accuse wrongfully, ’tis owing to my Misinformation, or my Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can’t define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I will now relate them to you as they pass’d this Year.
On Palm Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.
Upon the last Wednesday in Lent, the Cardinals went after Dinner to the Pope’s Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the Tenebræ, sung by the Pope’s Voices, without being accompany’d by Instruments. ’Tis perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos’d, and ’tis so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.
The Pope being somewhat indispos’d upon Holy Thursday, Cardinal Barberini officiated for him. The Cardinals repair’d in the Morning to the Vatican in Sixtus’s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which the Cardinal Barberini, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in Mitres and white Copes, carry’d the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into Paul’s Chapel, which was finely illuminated. There our Lord’s Body was deposited, after which the Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers Nations, dress’d in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal Barberini, who sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc’d some Collects, which were answer’d by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin, and went and wash’d the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which was carry’d by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip’d their Feet dry, he kiss’d them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he reascended the Throne,
and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up the Pater-noster, and the Music finish’d it. This done, he went with the Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum’d his ordinary Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was elegantly serv’d. The Pope’s Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if the Pope had been well, he wou’d have done the same himself. The Cardinals din’d also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests Table is defray’d by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both Tables is order’d by the Pope’s Major Domo. The Cardinal’s Beaufet is very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that is better dispos’d. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with ’em; which, ’tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that happen’d to Pope Alexander VI. and his Son Cæsar Borgia, Duke de Valentinois, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the Cardinal Adrian de Cornetto, order’d Wine that was poison’d to be serv’d up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But Cornetto had the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and Cæsar suffer’d by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill’d them out each a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar’d, which
kill’d the Pope; but Cæsar, having caus’d himself to be wrapp’d up in the Skin of a Mule, recover’d.