The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square del Popoli, is called la Strada Ripetta. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs leading down to the Tiber, which are of a grand Design, and so contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the principal Ports of Rome.
The third Street, which ends in the Square of Spain, has also nothing in it worth seeing. To hear a Roman speak of the Square of Spain, one would
think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that less deserves that Character. ’Tis much narrower in the Middle than at both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of Spain, which is occupied by the Cardinal Bentivoglio[1], the Ambassador of that Crown, and the Palace de Propaganda, it has not one handsome House. In the Middle of it there’s a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious Stair-case, which leads to the Church of Trinity on the Mountain, belonging to the French Minims. ’Twas made during the Pontificate of Pope Innocent XIII. of the Family of Conti, out of the Money which a rich Frenchman left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say, that no less than 60,000 Roman Crowns were expended in it; which, if true, ’twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste perfectly Gothic, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old Romans were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.
The Square of Spain, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the Place of Rendezvous for all the Beau Monde in the City. Here the Ladies, sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in Rome, mixed with Clouds of Dust; and one
is not only pester’d with Beggars, but every Minute in Danger of being crush’d to pieces between the Coaches, which press forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount Trinity. There I have the Pleasure to see something of what passes in the Square of Spain; I extend my View over all Rome, and even into the Country beyond it, and there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the Wheel. ’Tis true, that I see none except Abbés and Prelates; but they are not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of the Ladies Coaches.
Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of Spain, and the seven Streets which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the Spanish Ambassador, whither the Sbirri dare not pursue a Criminal, or to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by Bravo’s, who, like the Swiss of the Spanish Minister, are very jealous of their Rights of Franchise, which all Ambassadors enjoy as well as he: This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an Opportunity of finding Refuge; but ’tis a rare Income for the Bravo’s and their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.
The Square of Spain leads me to give you some Account of the Square Navona, which, tho’ by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the Length of it, may be numbered among the
finest Squares in the World. ’Tis adorned with noble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order of Pope Innocent X. of the Family of Pamphili, according to a Model by Signior Lorenzo Bernini, who has made a shining Display of his Art in this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in it, and on the Top there’s an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, which was formerly in the Circus of the Emperor Antoninus Caracalla. At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble, sitting in Attitudes equally bold and noble, which represent the four principal Rivers of the World, the Ganges, the Nile, the Danube, and Rio de la Plata, in the West-Indies. These four Statues, tho’ made by different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous Michael Angelo Buonarota.
Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. Agnes, begun by Innocent X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes Pamphili. ’Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in Rome. The Inside is an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace, belonging to Prince Pamphili, who lets it out to the Cardinal Corsini[2]. There’s a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in Painting.