Guide said, I shou’d have sweat for Fear; because he affirm’d to me, that there was not a Week throughout the Year but Passengers were robb’d and murder’d in this Forest. But when I came to the Village of Viareggio, which stands in the Middle of the Forest, I heard that every Word my Guide has told me was false; and that since the Courier from Lucca was robb’d, which was eighteen Years ago, they had not heard of any Robbers this Way: This put me very much in Heart again, for, to be plain with you, I don’t care to tilt with Highwaymen; but for all this, an Italian Lacquey that I have in my Service, cou’d not be easy: As we had still three Leagues of this Forest to pass thro’, he conjur’d me to take a Guard; but I banter’d him, and proceeded on my Way. My Lacquey rode by me on Horseback, telling his Beads. I had scarce travell’d half a League, but I saw five Men coming arm’d; my Lacquey, who was the first that spy’d them, cry’d out like a Madman, Jesu Maria! what! must I die without Confession? Misericordia! Misericordia! I put my Head out of the Chaise to take a View of the Men, who had innocently put my Lacquey into such a Fright, and found by their Garb, that they were Soldiers from Lucca, who patroll’d there for the Security of the Forest. The Panic which my Lacquey was under made me at first laugh very heartily, but I soon changed my Note; for when we came to Pietra-Santa, a little Place in the State of Lucca, he had not Strength to alight from his Horse; for the Fright had so seiz’d him, that he was almost dead: He wanted a Confessor; but I thought a Surgeon would do every whit as well for him, and therefore I sent for one, and caus’d him to bleed the Fellow, who in two Hours time grew better. I took him into my Chaise, and went and lay at Massa di Carrara, the Capital of a very small Feodal Sovereignty
of the Empire, belonging to Cardinal Cibo, the last of his Family. After his Death, this Principality is to fall to his Niece, who, ’tis said, is design’d for the young Prince Eugene of Savoy, Nephew[21] to the Great Eugene, and Lieutenant-General of the Emperor’s Forces.
The Founder of this Family was Alberic Cibo, the natural Son of Innocent VIII. and, for his Sake, the Emperor Maximilian II. erected Massa into a Feudal Principality of the Empire: This City has nothing remarkable in it but the Prince’s Palace, which makes some Shew. The Emperor keeps a Garrison in it[22]. The People at Massa are of good florid Complexions, and the Country is famous for its Quarries of Marble, and for Oil in abundance.
From Massa to Sersana, or Sarzana, a City in the State of Genoa, the Country is extremely well cultivated, being planted with Olive-Trees and Vines. In this City the Genoese have a Governor, or Podestat, but they keep a very sorry Garison in it; and if the Republic has no better Soldiers to withstand the Corsicans, who are call’d the Devils of Italy, I question whether the Rebellion will be soon suppress’d. The Sergeant of the Guard at the Gate made me a very civil Petition for Charity, which he assured me was a small Tribute due to him from Foreigners.
From Sersana I proceeded to Lerici, a little Town on the Sea-side. There I put my Chaise on board a Felucca, and arriv’d in less than twenty-four Hours at Genoa, tho’ I stay’d some Hours at Sestri, an Episcopal City of that Republic: It is a small, but pleasant Town, and
very agreeably situate upon a Rock forming a Cape, which runs very far into the Sea. This Town is defended by a Fort, which seem’d to me to be well furnish’d with Cannon, but the Garison is no better mann’d than that of Sersana.
Genoa, from that Side which is next the Harbour, affords one of the greatest and finest Points of View in the World; and though most of the Streets are narrow, close, and not very lightsome, yet among all the Towns of Italy it is with Justice call’d the Superb; for there is not a City in Europe, where there are more spacious and magnificent Palaces, and where the Houses are in general better built. This rich and stately City has been subject to several Revolutions, but never suffer’d a greater Shock than in 1684. when ’twas bombarded by Order of Lewis XIV. The Marquis de Seignelai, who was the Minister of his Revenge, discharg’d his Commission so well, that from the 18th of May to the 28th, he caus’d 13,000 Bombs to be thrown into the Town. The Genoese were oblig’d to humble themselves, and the King granted them a Peace, on Condition that they wou’d send four Senators into France, to make their Submission to him by the Mouth of the Doge, whose Title was to be kept up, tho’, according to the Laws of the Republic, he loses it as soon as he stirs a Foot out of the City, Francis-Maria-Imperiali Lercari was then the Doge, who went to Versailles, and had his Audience there on the 15th of May 1685. He affected to appear very gay there, by which means he gave more Lustre to the Satisfaction which he came to make, than to his own Dignity.
The French boast very much of this Event, and have not only struck Medals upon it, but have represented it in Basso Relievos of Brass, in Tapestries, and in Pictures; and all their Historians talk of it as one of the most glorious Epochas of the
Reign of Lewis XIV. Far be it from me to detract from the Glory of a Reign, which all the Universe admires, and to this Day respects; but I cannot help saying, that I question whether the French wou’d easily pardon any other Nations for making the like Boast of their Exploits. The Spaniards, who have the Character of being vain, are, in my Opinion, if I may presume to say it, less so than the French. They have a more glorious Passage in their History, and that is, the Excuses which Philibert, Prince of Piedmont, Son to Charles Emanuel, Duke of Savoy, made in Person to Philip IV. King of Spain, in 1610. That Monarch, being disgusted at the Conduct of the Duke, because he had made a Treaty with France, sought to be reveng’d on him, and found an Opportunity. Henry IV. King of France being assassinated, Mary de Medicis, the Regent, was in no Condition to embroil herself with Spain, by assisting Charles Emanuel. Philip IV. improv’d this Opportunity, and caus’d Troops to march from the Milanese towards Piedmont: The Duke, in order to divert the Storm, sent his Son to Madrid. The young Prince was very well receiv’d there at first, but he had the Mortification to be oblig’d to make the most submissive Speech that could come from the Lips of a Sovereign Prince: ‘Sir, said he, addressing himself to the King, the Duke, my Lord and Father, being hinder’d from coming himself, by his Age and Business, has sent me to supplicate your Majesty on my Knees, to accept of the Satisfaction which I am now making. I am at a Loss for Terms strong enough to express the Grief of the Duke my Father for the Loss of your Favour. I fall once more at your Majesty’s Feet, resolv’d not to rise, were I to die on the Spot, till you have granted me the Favour I desire of you, which is, to take the Duke my Father, and our whole Family, into
your Royal Protection. By this, Sir, you will give a Proof of your Readiness to pardon the greatest Errors, and of the Kindness which you always had for a Family which is devoted to you, and honours you as its Lord and Father. This Declaration, which is now made at your Knees by a Prince of your Blood, shall, if necessary, be seal’d by mine. The Duke my Father absolutely relies upon your Majesty’s Goodness, and we resign ourselves to you without Reserve. If it pleases you to grant me the Favour which I humbly desire of you, it will be a new Obligation, that will attach us forever to your Interests.’