a courtly Behaviour, to which the Italians are pretty much Strangers. The Genoese in general understand good Living, and are never deficient in that respect, for want of knowing better. Tho’ they are said to be a sorry People, I could like to live here very well. I have been at two of their Assemblies, upon Occasion of the Marriage of a Nobleman, and have not seen any thing more magnificent; for a King could not have made a more splendid Entertainment. I was introduced to them by the Count Guiccardi, Envoy Extraordinary from the Emperor, and received abundance of Civilities. This Envoy is a Subject of the Duke of Modena, and was formerly in his Service. He was that Prince’s Minister at Vienna, when he went into the Service of his Imperial Majesty. He married the Countess Sinzendorff, who was the Daughter of Hawitz, the Grand Marshal at Dresden. This Lady was a Lutheran; but being at Vienna, and having a Curiosity to go to Divine Service in the Metropolitan Church of St. Stephen, while she was looking upon a Picture of the Holy Virgin, a Flash of Lightning came into the Chapel where she was, and scorch’d her in a Part, which I verily believe she wou’d not shew for all the Gold of Peru; but she received no other Harm, and thinking that she saw the Holy Virgin protecting her, it made such an Impression upon her, that she embraced our Religion, of which she is an exemplary Professor.
You know that the Genoese are actually at War with their Subjects the Corsicans, who have newly publish’d a Manifesto of their Reasons for taking Arms. If all they say be true, ’tis certain they have been very ill used; and that if any Rebellion can be excus’d, theirs may. This War has already cost the Republic immense Sums, and by the Turn which Affairs are taking, ’tis to be presumed it
will run them into a much greater Expence. The Corsicans have chose one Giafferi for their Leader. He is a Man of Courage, and a good Head-piece: They say he has taken an Oath to procure his Country its Liberties; and if the Genoese are not assisted by some Power, he is like enough to succeed.[23] Time will bring all Things to Light. I am, &c.
LETTER XXXVI.
SIR,Turin, Nov. 28, 1731.
The Road hither from Genoa is very bad at this time of the Year. During the first two Post-Stages I cross’d one River no less than thirty-two times, and saw a great many fine Houses on the Banks of it; for tho’ the Neighbourhood of Genoa is very mountainous, ’tis very pleasant, all the Hills being covered with Chesnuts, and other Fruit-Trees. After I had travell’d about four Post-Stages, I enter’d on the Plain which brought me to Turin. This is certainly one of the finest Countries in the World, and wants nothing but Causeys.
The most considerable City that I met with in my Road, was Alexandria de la Paille, which stands on the River Tanaro. ’Tis a great Town, but not very populous. It formerly depended on the Milanese, and was yielded by the Emperor to the King of Sardinia, who keeps a good Garison in it, and has set Men at Work to repair the Fortifications, which had really been very much neglected. This City is also of Note for its Fairs, which are the most considerable in Italy.