La Novalaise is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig’d to stop there to unload their Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain’d, and other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow
fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount Cenis on the Side of Savoy is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country People call se faire ramasser. This Way of travelling is very commodious and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly faster. I knew an English Gentleman that stay’d a Week together at Lanebourg, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again and again, purely for the Pleasure of se faire ramasser.
Lanebourg and its Inn are no better than La Novalaise; but one is oblig’d to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don’t travel Post, and make use of the Carriers of Turin or Chamberry, are seldom put to this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which is very quickly loaded. From Lanebourg to Chamberry all the Road is bury’d, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices: There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which the Horses were kill’d, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of Carignan, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho’ he was not at all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou’d actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder’d him.
I pass’d thro’ several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth mentioning; St. John de Maurienne is the chief, because ’tis the See
of a Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; ’tis a very antient County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of Savoy; this Valley extends from the Alps to the River of Isere on one Side, and from the Tarentaise to the Dauphinois.
Chamberry, the Capital City of Savoy, is not a Town where you must expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; ’tis situate on the Banks of the River Orbanno in a very little Plain encompass’d with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There’s a great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money’d Men; yet they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People good-natur’d and civil, and the Savoyards in general are a very good Sort of People. They are accus’d of being too thrifty, but perhaps ’tis more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig’d to support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune, he is forc’d to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
At the Distance of five Leagues from Chamberry I descended a high Mountain, in which I perceiv’d a Road had been cut for half a League. I saw by a Latin Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not Time to copy, that the Romans formerly undertook to make this Road; but, judging it impossible, gave it over; yet Charles Emanuel II. for the Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether he wou’d have accomplish’d it, if, like the Romans, he had
not made use of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc’d on both Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass’d, it was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter’d the Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
This Mist brought me to the Town of Echelles, which is at the Foot of the Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to Lyons. I also pass’d to Pont de Bonvoisin, a little Town which is shar’d betwixt the Kings of France and Sardinia. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here, the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of France keeps a Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of Bonvoisin, which belongs to him. This is the first Town of Dauphiny, which is not one of the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to Philip de Valois by Humbert de la Tour, the last Sovereign Prince of Dauphiny, who bore the Title of Dauphin of the Viennois. History says, that Humbert, finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of France, and chose a Monastic Life at Lyons in the Order of St. Dominic, in the Rules of which he liv’d with the very great Esteem of good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated Patriarch of Alexandria. Some say, that having been the innocent Author of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a secret Grudge against the Duke of Savoy, whom he was too weak to cope with, he made an Agreement with the King of France, on purpose that the Duke