The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if they don’t get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig’d to yield the Precedence to a Journeyman Shopkeeper. There’s an old Actress here, who forty Years ago was the Darling of the Generality of Lyons: The People of good Taste wish her banish’d from the Theatre, but there’s no persuading this superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither’d Charms: She has the Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better employ’d; but Mademoiselle Marez, which is the Name of this Matron, remonstrated, that she cou’d not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year, that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer, that she had no Estate; and that if they touch’d her Pension, she shou’d be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail’d, so that it was not thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle Marez to an Extremity. A Lady of this Province happening
to be in Town, and hearing it reported that Mademoiselle Marez had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her Gallant, said smartly, Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn’d; She takes the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives.
I often take the Air here in the Square of Belle-Cour, or Lewis le Grand, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a great many very pretty Women, and well dress’d, who act the Ladies of Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at Belle-Cour to you, without acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: ’Tis not pav’d, nor near so wide as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated; and it were to be wish’d, that those on the two Sides were of the same Proportion. On one Side of this Square there’s a Row of Trees, and in the Middle an Equestrian Statue of Lewis XIV. who is there represented on Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription than the Name, Lewis XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal de Villeroi, who engag’d the Citizens of Lyons to be at the Expence of it, thought it the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou’d be paid to the Original.
There’s another Square here call’d les Terreaux, which is worthy of Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and magnificent Edifice of Stone. Lewis XIV. on Horseback is represented in Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the Square of Terreaux stands the Abbey of St. Peter, which is a great Building, and, when finish’d, will not want for Magnificence. I am, &c.
LETTER XXXVIII.
SIR,Paris, March 20, 1732.
For the sake of good Wine I preferr’d the Djon Road to Paris, before the great Road from Lyons thro’ Tarare; but I have been rightly serv’d for being so over-nice in my Palate, for I have been sadly impos’d on, and did not meet with one Glass of good Wine at any House of Entertainment in all the Road, which in other respects I found pleasant enough. I sent my Chaise to Chalons upon the Saone, and went thither by Water in the Boat that carries Passengers, who go in the Diligence (Stage Coach) to Paris. In this Vehicle, which otherwise was not a very pleasant one, I happen’d to meet with a Couple of Officers of my Acquaintance, very amiable Gentlemen. We pass’d by Trevoux, the Capital of the Principality of Dombes, of which the Duke de Maine is Sovereign: It came to him by Inheritance from the late Mademoiselle de Montpensier, Daughter of Gaston of France, Duke of Orleans, a Princess who render’d herself famous in the Civil Wars by the taking of Orleans, and by ordering the Cannon to be fir’d from the Bastille upon the Army of Lewis XIV. who never intirely forgave her for that Piece of Disrespect, and to punish her wou’d never give her leave to marry[38]. ’Twas to reconcile the King