easily be contained in Paris, because, like all the Towns in the Netherlands, it is decay’d, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The Citizens of Ghent were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most notable Revolt they ever made, was from Charles V. for which they were severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed through France to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a Citadel; by which Means Ghent became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
The Fortifications of Ghent consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp, broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place: Nevertheless, I have heard that King William of England, used to say, that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep Ghent than Brussels.
I have done nothing at Ghent but sauntered about the Streets. I have been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron de Stein, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of Portugal, a Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle de Watteville, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess, Governess of the Netherlands. She is a Lady worthy to be
respected, and is esteemed by all Ghent. What Amusements there are in this Town, I cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
I went in the Bark along the Canal from Ghent to Bruges, which is the most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a good Room, and with Company very happily mix’d. At Noon we had a Dinner served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at Brussels; where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. ’Tis a Rule in this Bark, for the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of Women on Board; and the Flemish Women are, for most part, good Topers of the Juice of the Grape.
Bruges in the County of Flanders stands in a great Plain, three Leagues from the Sea, upon the Canal of Reye; which being divided into several navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes to Ostend, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to Bruges of four hundred Tons. ’Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho’ ’tis considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at Antwerp, and in Holland; notwithstanding which, Bruges is still one of the biggest and best Cities in Flanders. Here are magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and open, with several large Squares, and there’s no want of Inhabitants; but they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. ’Tis a hard matter for a Foreigner to get acquainted with ’em; for the Flemings are naturally unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a German. When the Count de Lalaing, formerly
the Viscount of Audenarde, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at Brussels. And, as I don’t care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately to Ostend.
This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three Months, again Albert Archduke of Austria; and for the India Company established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all Europe, however, agreed to get revoked. Ostend never was a Town of much Note for Pleasures. ’Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable that belongs to the Emperor in Flanders. Its Situation renders it very strong: ’Tis encompass’d with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks, and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due Repair. If the Ostend Company had continued, this would certainly have been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For Holland and England swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the Netherlands.
Newport, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than Ostend. ’Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify’d, and can lay the Country under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a Degree, that there’s never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to do with their Time.
As I left Newport, I returned to Ghent, and went to Courtray, over one of the finest Causeys,