of Nimeguen, and they maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince William of Hesse Cassel, Brother to the King of Sweden; but since the Death of the Landgrave of Hesse, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the said Landgraviate, resides no longer at Maestricht; which is a Loss to this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv’d with all the Dignity answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] d’Amerongen.
The Walks about Maestricht, especially those on the Ramparts, are charming; for there’s no want of good Company, and ’tis the genteelest of all the Garisons that belong to the Dutch. ’Tis a very pretty Town, with beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is remarkable in all the Towns of Holland. The Maese passes thro’ this Town, and over it there’s a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured for a Truth, the late Marshal d’Auverquerque, when a young Man, leaped his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle de Feldtbruck, how sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade with him to the
Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
I stay’d a few Days at Maestricht, which City put me in Mind of my Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector Frederic of Brandenbourg. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for him.
The City of Liege is about five Leagues from Maestricht. A Vessel goes thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so rapid as the Maese, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that Liege was built by that Ambiorix King of the Eburons, a great Enemy of the Romans who cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of Cæsar’s Lieutenants; for which Affront, Cæsar afterwards took a sweet Revenge. But be this as it will, ’tis certain that Liege is a very ancient City. ’Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley, encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro’ which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the Maese, which passes thro’ the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Lambert, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or Tressonciers, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the Doctor’s
Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will, comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of Germany.
The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of Liege is ancient. It has large Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of Berg. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector of Cologne, and the Cardinal of Saxe Zeits; but he had the good Luck to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a Capuchin to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This Capuchin Minister died without being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince’s Domestics. He is succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another Capuchin; but his Authority is more limited.
The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at Serai, a Country House a small League from Liege, on the Banks of the Maese, towards Huy, where he has seldom any body with him but his Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber. His Table is not so sumptuous as ’tis elegant; his Liveries are very modest, his Guards
but few, and cloath’d exactly alike. He has rais’d a Regiment of Guards, of which the Count de Beaufort, Brother to the Governor of Charleroy, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has been intirely ruin’d and demolish’d, since it was besieg’d and taken by my Lord Marlborough. ’Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the Citadel of Liege shall not be rebuilt.