’Tis a very fine Country from Dijon to Chalons[13], all along by those excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of Burgundy. At Chalons I found a Conveniency to go to Lyons: The Road is the finest that can be travell’d, for we go all the Way by the River Saone, which forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects that can be imagin’d. I pass’d by Trevoux, the Capital of the Principality of Dombes, which belongs to the Duke of Maine, to whom it was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late Madamoseille of France, Daughter to the late Gaston Duke of Orleans.
From Trevoux ’tis but a few Days Journey to Lyons: Before we come to this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of Pierre-Encise, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are condemned to perpetual Imprisonment.
Lyons[14] is the Capital of the Lyonnois, on the Conflux of the Rhone the Saone. ’Tis one of
the finest and most magnificent Cities in France: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its Buildings, both sacred and profane, very noble. St. John’s which is the Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of Gothic Architecture, where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon’d a Master-piece. The Canons have the Title of Counts of Lyons, and are oblig’d to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights of Malta.
The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I know of none but the Stadthouse at Amsterdam that exceeds it. The Square in which ’tis built is call’d la Place des Terreaux: ’Tis a very beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of the Ladies of St. Peter, now in Possession of a Daughter of the Marshal de Villeroy.
The Square of Bellecour is the finest Part of all the City; ’tis adorn’d with an Equestrian Statue of Lewis XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white Marble, at the Expence of the Marshal de Villeroy, Governor of Lyons and the Lyonnois, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch’s continued Favours to him and all his Family.
After one is out of the Square of Bellecour, we come to the magnificent Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated by the Saone. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key, that runs along the River, and is call’d the Villeroy Key, because it was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of Villeroy is mightily belov’d and respected throughout the Lyonnois, and while I was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill’d by one Gentleman or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor,
and the Reversion of his Post was secur’d to his Son the Duke de Villeroy, and to the Dukes of Rets and Alincourt his Grandsons: The latter of these is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishoprick was occupy’d by one of the Marshal’s Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of St. Peter was by one of his Daughters.
The Commerce of Lyons is still very flourishing, tho’ it was much more so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there’s not a Town in France where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don’t mean in Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good Education.
I embark’d on the Rhone at Lyons for Avignon: There are considerable Towns upon this River which yield noble Prospects: Such is the City of Vienne, the Capital of the Viennois, with the Title of an Archbishoprick: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the Romans, who spar’d no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are assur’d, that Pilate was banish’d hither, and they even shew a House, Half a League or more from the City, where ’tis said he liv’d. But I should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether ’tis really true that he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please.