As I pursued my Journey, I pass’d near Antibes, a strong Place on the Sea-Shore, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was translated to Grasse in Upper Provence. From thence I cross’d the Var, which River separates France from the Dominions of the King of Sardinia; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv’d at Nice.
Nice was formerly very well fortify’d, and its Castle especially was reckon’d impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of Francis I. and that of Barbarossa the Turk in 1543. But Lewis XIV. had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the Castle, which he caus’d to be intirely demolish’d; and having also caus’d the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy’d, he restor’d it in this Condition to its Sovereign. At Nice we begin to see Orange-trees in such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common
Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter.
As ’twas very fine Weather when I arriv’d at Nice, I was advis’d to go on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Passage of the Mountains; I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away, and ’twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv’d at Villa-Franca, a small Sea-Port in the County of Nice.
This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of the King of Sardinia’s Galleys: ’Twas here that this Prince embark’d with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of Sicily: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown’d at Palermo, they came and landed at Villa-Franca in their Return to Turin. The Night that I came to this Town there happen’d a terrible Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam, that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same Danger as I had been expos’d to before. The Winds, or rather all the Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you, cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance. Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told ’em the Danger was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be discourag’d. In short, I don’t remember every thing that I said to ’em, and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been
upon Terra Firma. Whatever it was, I arriv’d safe at Monaco, a little Town which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards the Sea, is built in the Italian Taste, but is a very plain Building. There is a French Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the Garison of Antibes. The Prince of Monaco, who is Sovereign of the Country, marry’d a Princess of Lorrain, by whom he only had Daughters. He marry’d the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the Duke de Valentinois, Son to M. de Matignon.
From Monaco I went to St. Remo, the first Town in the Dominions of Genoa, where I took a Boat, which carry’d me to Savona, a City in the State of Genoa, with the Title of a Bishoprick. This is one of the best Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its Dominions. The Genoese have caus’d a City to be built here with Two Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great Importance to the Republic.
I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir’d Mules to carry me to Genoa, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce passable, by reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing. The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the Sea-side, which being cover’d with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect. After one has travell’d some Leagues from Genoa, the Road becomes very good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many noble Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the most stately Amphitheatres
that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to Genoa.
Genoa is an Archbishoprick, the Capital of the State of Genoa, and the ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. ’Tis the finest and most magnificent City in Italy; ’tis not very long that this Republic has enjoy’d its Liberty, it being the famous Andrew Doria who acquir’d it for his Country during the Reign of Francis I. King of France, to whom Genoa was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas’d: I enter’d it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of Genoa. I was amaz’d at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the Annunciade, where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer’d Pillars, of red vein’d Marble, lin’d with white Marble; the Capitals of the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also gilt, and inrich’d with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of Marble in Compartments. I don’t undertake to give a farther Detail of the Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repetition of what has been said a hundred times over.