The Disgrace of this Minister cou’d not but be the more pleasing to the Duke of Orleans, because it happen’d at a Time when the Cardinal was taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with England; whither he had sent M. de Seissan, formerly a Colonel in France, afterwards Lieutenant-General in Poland, and now Captain-General in Spain, to treat with my Lord Stanhope, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of that Kingdom. M. de Seissan embark’d at the Groyne, after having been detain’d there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away; but at length he arriv’d at London. He went immediately to my Lord Stanhope, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who should he meet coming down booted and spurr’d, but the very Courier from France that brought
my Lord Stanhope Letters from the Abbot, afterwards the Cardinal, du Bois, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal Alberoni’s Disgrace. M. de Seissan, who knew nothing of the Change that had been made at the Court of Madrid while he was buffeted and toss’d about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord Stanhope, and told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he came from Spain without a Passport, unless he wou’d receive the Carte blanche he brought him for Peace, instead of such Passport. At the same time he produc’d to the English Minister the Full Power which he had from Cardinal Alberoni to treat of a Peace. My Lord Stanhope did not interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask’d him if it had been long since he left Madrid: M. de Seissan telling him all the Delays that had happen’d in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot Du Bois’s Letter to read. The Envoy of Spain was Thunder-struck when he read this Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all this, and that he resign’d himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as he thought fit. My Lord answer’d him very civilly, That he should be sorry to abuse the Confidence he had repos’d in him, by coming to him without a Passport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to Spain: which he did accordingly, without Delay.
’Twas said that Cardinal Alberoni was so piqu’d against the King and Queen of Spain, that he study’d Revenge; and that therefore as soon as he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him Shelter at Paris, he would let him
into the Detail of the most secret Affairs of the Spanish Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal’s Offers, and contented himself with sending him a Passport, that he might go to Italy. I saw him actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of Genoa, where his Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to run him down, was not content with his being disgrac’d by the King of Spain; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish’d from a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag’d upon the Road, and depriv’d of all his Papers, in danger of being murder’d by the Miquelets, and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv’d in Confidence that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal Alberoni had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish’d to see with what Intrepidity he behav’d in his Adversity.
After I had stay’d a while at Genoa, I went to Sarzana[15], and from thence to Pisa[16], which
is a City in the Dominions of Tuscany, with a University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no small Consequence in the Mediterranean, till it was conquered by the Dukes of Tuscany of the Family of the Medicis, who have ever since remain’d Masters of it. The City of Pisa has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan Church call’d the Dome, is of admirable Beauty: ’Tis built in the Gothic Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the Gothic Style. This great Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn’d with broad Gold Lace: In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship. Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of cast Iron, with very fine Basso-Relievo’s upon them, representing Historical Passages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the great Church-yard, which is encompass’d with a Gallery, whose Walls painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of Pisa. At a small Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher’s Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.
St. Stephen’s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets the Chapter of the Knights
of St. Stephen, which was instituted by the Great Duke Cosmo I. Anno 1561, after he had obtain’d a Victory. The Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Descents: They make a Vow of Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of Malta, which is fasten’d to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross is also embroider’d upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke Cosmo I. in Brass.
I carefully examin’d the famous Tower that leans to one Side: ’Tis round, and incompass’d with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There’s an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass, which is encompass’d with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.
The Country about Pisa is very pleasant: There’s a Grove of Cypress at its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, Madame, that at Pisa was concluded that famous Treaty between Alexander VII. and Lewis XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambassador the Duke of Crequy had receiv’d at Rome.