of his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc’d me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc’d to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to me Aventi, Aventi, i.e. Come forwards. I obey’d till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kiss’d an embroider’d Cross which was on his Holiness’s Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask’d me several Questions relating to my Conversion, and seem’d so overjoy’d at the Grace God had given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask’d me News about the Sate of Religion in Germany, and highly extoll’d the Zeal which the Elector Palatine manifested for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss’d me, he made me a Present of several Agnis Dei’s, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.
I stay’d at Rome till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on Wednesday in the Holy Week from Monte Cavallo for the Vatican Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holiness’s Houshold went first, who were all on
Horseback in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp’d Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse richly accouter’d, the same which was for his Holiness’s Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the Pope’s Chair march’d two Files of the Hundred Swiss, and the Light-Horse clos’d the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the Vatican Palace.
The next Day, which was Holy Thursday, I desir’d Cardinal Gualtieri to get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv’d at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I observ’d, sat upon Stools. The Constable Colonna stood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy Father descended from his Throne, and plac’d himself in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider’d with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope’s Livery rais’d the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry’d it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of St. Peter’s Church. The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk’d two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred Swiss. All St. Peter’s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were full
of People: His Holiness’s Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear’d, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order’d a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication and Anathema, against Heretics, Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry’d him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc’d the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis’d would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were present, and to the whole City of Rome in general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the Cannon of the Castle of St. Angelo were fir’d, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany’d with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in St. Peter’s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry’d back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore
during the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry’d it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir’d to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being plac’d all in a Row, dress’d in long White Robes, his Holiness wash’d their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow’d by those Thirteen Priests, went into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests sat down, and were serv’d by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalier de St. George and his Princess were present at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, he said, I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands: at the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.
When the Pope was retir’d, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College assisted at the Miserere, which was sung in the great Chapel with Instrumental Music.
Upon Easter-Day the Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress’d in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry’d in the same Manner as upon Holy Thursday, to the Gallery which fronts St. Peter’s Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the People
on their Knees to receive the Pope’s Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Castle of St. Angelo: Then the Pope retir’d to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ’d, that the Churches were always so throng’d, that the People were ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the Italians frequent the Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the excellent Music that is perform’d in them, than from any Motive of Religion.
Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from Rome with several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the famous City of Naples. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover’d with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be imagin’d. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of St. Elmo, built by Charles V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.