After I had well view’d this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew’d the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very considerable.
When I had intirely satisfy’d my Curiosity at Loretto, I set out for Bologna, and went by the very Gates of Ancona, which is a Sea-Port in the Pope’s Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din’d at Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac’d, and I could find no body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I thought very ancient.
From thence I went to Pesaro, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the whole Duchy of Urbino were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate of Urban VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was erected in Memory of that Event.
From Pesaro I went in a Day to Rimini, an Episcopal City which stood formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, the Sea being retir’d from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place that Cæsar took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor Augustus embellish’d it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here at
this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble Bridge well preserv’d, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote it was built by the Emperors Augustus and Tiberius. All the way from Rimini to Bologna I saw nothing remarkable.
[21]Bologna is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: ’Tis commonly call’d Bologna the Fat, because of its fruitful Soil. ’Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always at Rome an Auditor pf the Rota, and an Ambassador; which is punctually observ’d: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of Gregory XIII. which is look’d upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of Boniface VIII. which is not a bad one.
As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of Bologna, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of Italy; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in Italy, ’tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.
After some Stay here, I set out for Venice, in a Boat call’d The Messenger, which goes off from Bologna every Morning, or at least several times in a Week: ’Tis the most detestable Vessel that a Gentleman can be stow’d in; but you must go with that or none. We had not gone far, but, when we were still some Miles from Ferrara, we found the Water was too shallow, so that every Soul in the Boat was forc’d to go ashore, where we put our Baggage into Waggons, and our Persons into a sort of Coach, almost like the Stage-Coaches of France. The Outside of this Vehicle was so unpromising, that I profess I was very loth to get within it; besides, the Coachman seem’d to be fuddled, and his Horses being very sprightly, requir’d the Driver to be in his sober Senses. Nevertheless, having at that Time no other Way to proceed but to trust myself in that Carriage, or to foot it all the rest of the Journey, I did as others did, and we all ventur’d boldly into the Coach. We set out with such a Pace as made me terribly uneasy all the Way; yet our Coachman drove cleverly thro’ the most difficult Places, and carry’d us safe to Ferrara: But we had scarce enter’d that City, when our Charioteer, ’tis like to shew his Skill, made his Horses double their Pace just as we were to turn into a Street; whereupon they ran with such Fury, that, turning a little too short, one of the Wheels behind passing over a high Bank, our Coach overturn’d so suddenly, that the two Persons who sat next the Door were kill’d on the Spot, and the others dangerously wounded. For my own Part, I came off with a Blow on my Head, which made me have a swell’d Face for Seven or Eight Days. My Valet de Chambre, who sat over-against me,
had his Wrist put out of Joint: And, in short, out of Eight of us that were in Company, there was not one but had some Harm. What surpriz’d me more than any thing was, that I had the least, which, perhaps, is the first time that I ever met with a Companion that came off worse than myself. I could have wish’d to have walk’d about Ferrara[22], but my swell’d Face hinder’d me; and therefore, without Loss of Time, I put my Baggage on board a Vessel which carry’d me to Venice[23], where I arriv’d at Midnight.