While I stay’d at Venice, the Hereditary Prince of Modena came and spent a few Days there. The Venetians made several Entertainments for him, which gave me the Pleasure of seeing the Venetian Ladies in all their Dresses, or else I should have gone away without seeing one of them; for the Jealousy of their Husbands confines them almost always within Doors, so that ’tis impossible to see them, but in the Time of the Carnival, or on some Days of Festival. While the Prince of Modena stay’d at Venice, there was a sort of Carnival, which gave the Town an Air of Gaiety that is not common to it. I was surpriz’d at the magnificent Dresses of the Ladies, especially at the Number of their Jewels; for as to the rest of their Habit, there was something odd in it, as there is always in the Dress of the Italians. They were very constant at the Balls which were made for that Prince, who could not fail of being pleas’d to see how fond the Republic was to caress him. They also entertain’d him with a Diversion call’d the Regatte, which is a Contention of small Vessels to out-sail one another, and makes a very pleasant Shew. They are divided into Four little Squadrons, which are distinguish’d from one another by little Flags or Streamers of several Colours, and every Squadron is conducted by a great Bark richly gilded and adorn’d with very fine Paintings. The Seamen who are on board these Vessels, are always dress’d after a very gallant Manner: These Squadrons strive which shall gain the Prize appointed for that which arrives first at the Mark. The Prince of Modena seem’d to be mightily delighted with the Entertainment. In a few Days after it, he set out from Venice. I thought also of proceeding in my Travels thro’
Italy, and went to Padua with the same Gondoliers that had serv’d me while I stay’d at Venice.
[24]Padua is an Episcopal City, famous for its University; and more ancient, they say, than Rome and Venice. ’Tis thought to have been founded by Antenor the Trojan Prince, whose Tomb is still to be seen there. Its Soil is extremely fertile, and from thence came the Proverb, Bologne la Grasse, mais Padoue la passe, i. e. Bologne the Fat, but Padua the Fatter. As to the outside Appearance of the Town, I took such a cursory View of it indeed, that what I saw of it gave me no great Idea of it; for where-ever I came, every thing had a very dirty Hue: The Pavement was much out of Order, and the Houses of a despicable Taste; but I thought the Churches of St. Anthony and St. Justina really magnificent.
The first, where lies the Body of St. Anthony, is fac’d with Basso-Relievo’s of white Marble, representing the principal Miracles wrought by that Saint. The Altar is richly adorn’d, and illuminated with Thirty-nine great Silver Lamps that burn Night and Day.
St. Justina’s Church, tho’ far inferior to St. Anthony’s in point of Magnificence, is one of the finest in all Italy. The High Altar is, in all respects, a finish’d Piece of Work, and is intirely of Marble; as are also Twenty-four other Altars in the same Church, every one of which is of a particular Architecture. Round the Choir are Pews adorn’d with Basso-Relievo’s, representing the Prophecies contain’d in the Old Testament relating to Jesus Christ; and the fulfilling
of them in the New. On one Side of this Church is a huge Monastery, which has Six Cloysters, several Courts, and a Number of very magnificent Gardens. I went afterwards to see the Hall of the Town-house, which is one of the largest in Europe, being 256 Feet in Length, and 86 in Breadth: The Roof is very fine, and the Workmanship thereof bold, having no Pillar to support it; but the Fault of it is ’tis pretty dark, though I know not what should hinder its having more Light, the Situation of it being such that it might be procur’d for a very small Charge.
From Padua I went to Modena, by the Way of Ferrara and Bologna. The Soil of Padua being very marshy, the Roads are terrible, and I had as much to do as ever I had in my Life to reach to Ferrara, where I took Water, for fear that I had the same bad Way to get to Bologna. The very Day that I arriv’d at the latter, I set out for Modena, to which is a very plain Road thro’ a most agreeable Country, where the Eye is feasted at every Turn with a pleasing Variety.
Modena is the Capital of a Duchy of the same Name. This was the City in which Mark Anthony besieg’d Brutus, after the Murder of Cæsar. The Dukes of Modena are of the Family of Est, and depend on the Empire. I had the Honour of making my Compliments to the Duke Regent, who receiv’d me in the most obliging Manner that could be. He was still in Mourning for the Empress Leonora, Mother to the Emperor. He receiv’d me standing: As soon as ever I had made my Obeisance he put on his Hat, forc’d me to put on mine, talk’d
kindly to me for a good while, and I went away very well satisfy’d with my Audience.
As I had no Design to stay long at Modena, I did but glance over the several Quarters of this City, in which I found no Structure, either sacred or prophane, that deserves a Traveller’s Regard. The Streets of Modena are narrow, nasty, and ill-pav’d, the Street of the Course being the only one that is tolerable. The Duke’s Palace will be grand and magnificent when finish’d; as much as I saw of it carry’d up, being sufficient to form a great Idea of what the rest will be. The Duke’s Apartments are spacious and richly furnish’d: There was one of them fitting up for Madamoiselle de Valois, the Daughter of the Duke of Orleans the Regent, now the Princess of Modena, who they expected would soon be their Sovereign; and all Hands were at work to give her a Reception worthy of what she was already, and of what she was like to be. This Princess had need be Mistress of her Temper to bear the kind of Life they live at the Court of Modena, to which none can compare for Tranquillity; insomuch that it may be said, the very Gloominess of it is enough to incline a Person to Melancholy, especially one that comes to it from so gay a Court as that of France. In short, the Life of the Court of Modena is the Life of a Convent: When they rise, they go to Mass, and dine betimes; after Dinner they take a Turn out for the Air; in the Evening they play for some Time, sup at Eight a Clock, and by Ten they are in Bed. This, Madame, is the common Custom at the Court of Modena; at least they liv’d thus when I was there: but the Arrival of the Princess perhaps might make some Alteration in that irksome Repetition