At a little Distance from Susa is a Fortress call’d La Brunette, which is worth the Traveller’s Notice: It commands the Passage of the Alps, which hereafter will for that reason be more difficult for the French to pass than formerly. Next Day after my Arrival at the Foot of Mount Cenis, I prepared to pass that terrible Mountain: For this Purpose I dismounted my Chaise, and put it with my Trunks upon the Backs of Mules; after which I plac’d myself in a sort of Arm-Chair; and Two Men, who were reliev’d every now-and-then by Two others, carry’d me over it in Five Hours time. When I was on the Top of it I stopp’d, in hopes of discovering a great Tract of Country; but saw nothing, except a great Lake, and fine rich Meadows. On the Top of this Mountain there was a House of Entertainment, where the Mule-Drivers and Chair-Men always refresh themselves. This surely is the dismalest Place in the World, it being situate in the middle of a frightful Desert, which is always, or at least Nine Months in the Year, cover’d with Snow. One thing remarkable is, that no Robbery is committed in this wild Place, tho’ the People upon the Skirts of it are not to be trusted.
After I had been over Mount Cenis, I went to Lanebourg, the first Village in Savoy, where Travellers get again into their Chaises. As soon as my Equipage was remounted, I traveled to[26] Chambery, the Capital of Savoy. This is a City situate between Two Mountains, upon the Rivers Laise and Albans. ’Tis the Residence of a Parliament, consisting of Fifteen Senators
and Four Presidents, which is oblig’d for its Institution to Amedeus VIII. Duke of Savoy.
From Chambery I went to Geneva, a little Republic, which is an Ally of the Swiss Cantons. The City stands upon a Lake, of which it claims the Sovereignty, as the Republic of Venice does that of the Adriatic Sea. This Lake contributes very much to the Embellishment of Geneva, which is built upon a Hill, in Form of an Amphitheatre; so that on one Side it looks over the Lake, on the Banks of which are Vineyards and very pretty Country-Houses; and on the other Side is a Prospect of a noble Plain, Gardens, very fine Pastures, and a curious Walk form’d by a very long Mall: On each Side are the Mountains of Savoy, the Tops of which being cover’d with Snow, form a very agreeable View.
’Tis true, that as to the Genevese, the Situation of their City would be much more advantageous, if their Prospect was not so confin’d; or, at least, if they had nothing to fear from that which forms so charming a Point of View: For which way soever these Republicans turn their Eyes, they easily see the Limits of their Dominions; and this little Republic only subsists by the Jealousy of the Sovereigns their Neighbours, who will not suffer any one of themselves to make a Conquest of it. Mean time these People make a Parade of their Forces, and have been at considerable Expence in fortifying the Place, tho’ for what Reason I cannot imagine; since if any one of the neighbouring Powers came to attack Geneva, and the City was not supported by the others, it would be oblig’d to surrender, whether fortify’d or not. I should have thought
it better to have employ’d the Money expended on their new Fortifications, in embellishing their City, and to have contented themselves with the old Fortifications, which were more than sufficient to have given them Time for receiving Succours in case of an Attack.
I went to see the Arsenal, which appear’d to me to be well furnish’d, and they have always a considerable Garison, the Soldiers of which must be all Voluntiers; and if they once take a Dislike to the Service, they may demand their Dismission, and their Officer cannot refuse it: Yet notwithstanding this Liberty, the Garison is not always completer than it should be.
The Genevese have the Reputation of being rich, and not without Foundation; for they drive a considerable Trade, and every body there is either a Merchant or a Manufacturer. Yet they affect a great deal of Plainness, both in their Buildings and their Furniture. Their Houses are not lofty, nor the Apartments very large; and both their Houshold-stuff and Cloaths are very modest; there being a Decree of the Senate, which forbids them to make use of Gilding in their Furniture or Apparel, for fear, ’tis like, that Luxury, which formerly prov’d the Ruin of the Roman Republic, should be equally destructive to their petty State.
The Senate of Geneva commonly assembles in their Town-House, opposite to which is a Guard-Room, where the Soldiers present their Arms, as the Senators go in or out of the Assembly, or when they walk in Ceremony: Upon these Occasions the Senate and the Ministers form Two Rows, the former on the Right Hand, and the latter on the Left.