The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume IV / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of Heidelberg: The City stands on the Banks of the Neckar, with high Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which however there’s a Prospect of the noblest Plain in Germany. In this City there was formerly a famous University, founded by Rupert the Ruddy, Count Palatine and Duke of Bavaria in 1346. Here was to be seen one of the finest Libraries in Europe, but General Tilly carry’d it off in 1622, and sent it to Rome, where it makes a considerable Part of the Vatican Library. Lewis the Dauphin of France, Grandfather of Lewis XV. made himself Master of Heidelberg by a Capitulation in 1698. nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their Dignity, were dragg’d out of their Graves into the Square: And the French would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army of the Empire had not advanc’d towards Heidelberg, of which the Germans made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for Treachery, and sentenc’d to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword, or to have his Coat of Arms defac’d, his Sword broke, to be kick’d by the Hangman, and turn’d out of the Army with his Life: But he was so mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to

Death, and retir’d to Hildesheim, where he has the Misfortune to be still living.

Some Time after this, the Marshal de Lorge attack’d Heidelberg, but he could not master it, tho’ the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon him, the Burden of which was, He would have taken Heidelberg, if he had found the Door open. There’s no Sign now that Heidelberg was ever ruin’d; ’tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in Germany; but ’twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov’d to Manheim. What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of Heidelberg and the Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector had fix’d his Residence at Heidelberg, he desir’d that this Church, in which the Electors are interr’d, might be intirely Catholic; and for this end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and engag’d that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos’d it, and represented to the Citizens, that ’twas of dangerous Consequence to resign that Church, which was included in the Treaty of Westphalia, and in all the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of Neubourgh, on their Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made, they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis’d to be built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector having declar’d that he would be obey’d, the

Ministers apply’d to the Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise; and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did not seem to be much concern’d at it, because they imagin’d, that if the Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them, as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens’d at the Disrespect of his Subjects, abandon’d them, and transfer’d his Court and all the Tribunals to Manheim; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw themselves at the Elector’s Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and has caus’d the City and Castle of Manheim to be rebuilt.

The Castle of Heidelberg to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder committed there by the French; for there’s a great Part of it in Ruins; and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was only one that was not damag’d. That which remains of the Palace is in a Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; ’tis neither Gothic nor Modern, but a Rhapsody of all the Orders heap’d one upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted the Work, had only design’d a Building of great Expence, without troubling himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence there’s a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the Outside.

The Elector’s Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms, without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands. The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access, because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them.

In the Vaults of this Palace there’s the Tun, so famous for its enormous Size; ’tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons Paris Measure. The Electors have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to you, that I can’t comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides is very dark.

As I was preparing to set out for Vienna where I intended, as I said, to sollicit Employment, I receiv’d a Letter from Paris, with Advice that the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers’d, and that all my Fears were ill grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the contrary, more inclin’d than ever to shew me the Effects of his Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to Paris, which Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it.

At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave me a very good Reception, and Madame made me so welcome, that it confirm’d my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court of France. I found People very much divided about the War which had been just declar’d

against Spain: The French were indeed for a War, but they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army, because several had excus’d themselves. Only the Marshal de Berwic, the Natural Son of James II. King of England, prefer’d the Service of the Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of Spain. His Catholic Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap’d Favours upon him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of Spain, but had moreover granted to both of ’em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of Liria for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the Command with Pleasure, and set out for Spain.