Near Burgos is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents of Spain have considerable Revenues: The Country from Burgos to Vittoria is finer and better cultivated than in New Castile, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what the Spaniards generally are, that I thought myself in another World.
Vittoria is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen Mary-Louisa of Savoy retir’d with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the Archduke Charles the present Emperor, after the Battle of Saragossa advanc’d towards Madrid, and thereby oblig’d King Philip to quit Spain.
We lodg’d at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where in Spain: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay’d my Share without grumbling, because I always observ’d, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay’d but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great
Noise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish’d to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and ’twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch’d up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify’d: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron’s Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz’d him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv’d; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.
At Vittoria we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro’ to Bilbao, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm’d Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask’d us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order’d the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten’d them; however,
they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell’d Three or Four Leagues in it, carry’d us to Bilbao: This Valley is water’d by a River, the Banks of which are lin’d with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can’t go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in all Spain.
Bilbao is the Capital of Biscay, and the prettiest Town that I saw in Spain: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool with Holland, England and France, and there are commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its Trade; but Philip V. suppress’d that Franchise, and establish’d a Custom-house, which occasion’d a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz’d themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag’d several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill’d several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress’d, the Authors
of the Tumult were seiz’d, and several of the most mutinous were hang’d, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv’d them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native of Biscay cannot be sentenc’d to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys. Catalonia formerly enjoy’d the same Privileges, till it was depriv’d of them by Philip V. when he reduc’d that Province.
Near Bilbao on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich’d by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: ’Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may be look’d upon as Art’s Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus’d of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish’d it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon’d him, purely for his Ingenuity.
I stay’d longer at Bilbao than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going to Holland; but at last being tir’d with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of Bilbao that was bound for London, by which means I had a Sight of England sooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind during