The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass’d with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of Charles II. who is represented standing upright, and dress’d in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of England, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue of Charles II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform’d, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of Charles I. erected betwixt the Haymarket and Whitehall, which is all of Brass, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse of Henry IV. at Paris; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand: Cromwell, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv’d, but caus’d it to be pull’d down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas’d it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus’d it to be bury’d under Ground, where it remain’d till Charles II. was restor’d to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus’d it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.
A little Distance from the Exchange is the famous Tower of London, which is of the same Use to this City as the Bastille is to Paris, with this Difference however, that ’tis not so easy for
a King of England to store it, as it is for a King of France to fill the Bastille: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form’d of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is the best furnish’d, and kept in the best Condition of any in Europe: In this Tower are also preserv’d the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of Edward the Confessor, with which the Kings of England are crown’d: ’Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew’d that which serv’d for the Coronation of Q. Mary, the Daughter of James II. ’Tis cover’d all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince of Wales’s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don’t pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv’d, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro’ a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.
After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry’d into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings of England, from William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, to James II. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour’d, which makes them frightful Objects.
As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of the English People: I thought Englishmen were much the same in their own Country as the French are out of France, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what the French are in their own Country, good-natur’d, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the Italians were most esteem’d in England, the French and Germans being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the Germans is of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector of Hanover; for till then the English look’d upon us as if they neither lov’d nor envy’d us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money of England goes over to Germany; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call’d the House of Hanover to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the French, ’tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when the French wear little Hats, the English wear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in France, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and ’tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; so
that I am persuaded, the English would soon quit any Fashion, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the French thought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as well as the French, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there’s not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the English do, and really they had need to be as well-shap’d as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.
The English Women are also perfectly well-shap’d, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han’t the Art of Dress; and tho’ they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour’d to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos’d before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro’ which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour’d Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, for ’tis very often us’d by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg’d on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design’d for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem to
be made to the Purpose, being cover’d with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us’d to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of Venice.
That amiable Freedom which reigns in England gives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, the English Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day’s Work. The English are very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of England are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten’d to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The English, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ’d, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as the English.