I pass’d thro’ St. Menehoult, which is a Town in Champagne, built in a Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of Metz offer’d to rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a Synagogue there.
From St. Menehoult I went to Verdun, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops take the Titles of Counts of Verdun, and Princes of the Holy Empire. This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to France by Lorrain. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this
Church there’s a Well, which is preserv’d there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire, because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to bring Water to it.
From Verdun I went to Metz, where I made some Stay. This is a very large Town, at the Conflux of the Moselle and the Seille. It was heretofore the Capital of Austrasia, and afterwards reckon’d as an imperial City till 1552, that the Constable of Montmorency made a Conquest of it for Henry II. King of France. The Emperor Charles V. try’d in vain to retake it, when the Duke of Guise, who commanded in the Place, acquir’d great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig’d him to raise the Siege, at which the Emperor was so mortify’d, that he resign’d his Dominions, and retir’d to a Cloyster. Metz, Toul and Verdun were confirm’d to France in 1559, by the Treaty of Chateau-Cambresis, and this Cession was afterwards confirm’d by the Peace of Munster in 1648.
The Cathedral of Metz, which is dedicated to St. Stephen, is a Church of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of Porphyry about 10 Foot in Length.
There is very good Company at Metz, and I should have been glad to have stay’d there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was here, M. de Saillant was the commanding Officer.
He liv’d with Splendor, and I commonly din’d with him, and supp’d with the Intendant of the Province, who was then M. de Celi of the Harlay Family, and was very much esteem’d.
When I set out from Metz, I struck into the Road for Germany, and went to Spires. This Town may be consider’d as a Monument of the Ravage of War, there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of the Houses burnt by the French, in the War they made for the Destruction of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which after ’twas ruin’d, was transfer’d to Wetzlar. Spires is the See of a Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of Mentz.
I pass’d the Rhine at Spires, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a few Hours at Heidelberg, from whence I went to Stutgard, and so to Ulm.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in Germany, and has magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn’d with Fountains. Our Lady’s, which is the most considerable of all the Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; but the Roman Catholics are allow’d the free Exercise of their Religion here. This City was formerly but a Village, which Charlemain granted to the Abbey of Reichenau. The Inhabitants of Ulm redeem’d their Liberty on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of Swabia.
Ulm is very well fortify’d; it maintains a stout Garison, and its Ramparts are furnish’d with