Fig. 33.—Setting a tree: A, Measuring from the curb to get the tree in line; B, filling the hole: C, placing the box; D, fastening the box.
In regions normally adapted to fall planting, newly set trees may be killed by a dry autumn followed by a dry winter with, high winds or by a cold winter with so little snow that the ground freezes below the roots. On the other hand, trees may often be successfully planted in the fall where such practice is not usually successful by thoroughly mulching the soil if freezing is the sole cause of the difficulty, or by drenching the soil thoroughly and then mulching well if lack of moisture and high winds are the causes of the trouble. Protection from the wind by wrapping the trunk and large limbs with burlap or some other protecting material is also desirable.
After a liberal opening has been made in the specially prepared soil the tree should be brought, preferably from the city's own nursery ([fig. 32]), but if such a nursery has not been provided, then from among the newly received trees that have been "heeled in" as already described.
If the tree has been well handled and the roots carefully protected it is ready for setting. It is desirable to immerse the roots in a thin mixture of clay and water just before putting it in the hole if there is suspicion that the roots have been exposed. This can be done before leaving the nursery or "heeling in" ground, but the roots must be properly protected. Any mutilated ends of roots should be removed, the top should be severely pruned, as described later, and the tree should be placed in the hole in line with the other trees ([fig. 33, A]) and at such a height that after the filling is completed it will be about an inch deeper in the ground than it was before transplanting. The roots should be spread out in as near their original position as practicable, and soil should be carefully worked in about them with the fingers, so that each rootlet may come in contact with soil and not be crowded against other rootlets. When all the roots have been placed and covered the soil should be thoroughly trampled or tamped to bring the roots into as close contact as possible with it. Then more soil should be put in and the ground again tamped. Of course, in order to get satisfactory results the soil used for planting must not be too wet or too dry. If the soil is in such a state as to hold together in soggy masses and not spring apart again when squeezed in the hand, it is too wet for planting. If the soil is too dry, it will not stay in contact with the roots during the planting operations. A soil that is too dry may be well-watered a day or two in advance of the planting, or if excessive dryness does not make it difficult to handle, the tree may be planted and then be thoroughly watered. After the watering 3 or 4 inches of loose soil should be spread over the wet ground in order to prevent undue evaporation. It should not be trampled or pounded in any way after the water is applied. If trees planted in moist retentive soils are watered after planting they should be provided with a mulch of similar earth. East of the Missouri River trees planted in soil that is in good condition usually do not need watering at the time of planting.
Trees planted from pots, cans, or boxes should have the ball of earth taken from the receptacle handled with care, so as not to break it further than to loosen some of the roots on the outside of the ball; then the soil should be as carefully placed about this ball and the loosened roots as about the roots of trees without balls. Trees planted with balls need no root pruning and little top pruning.
P20367HP
Fig. 34.—A pin oak trimmed for planting. Note the bad stubs (A, A) on the left-hand side of the tree.