March 8. We set sail, with a favourable breeze, from Makkarif, at one; and at half past one we passed the village of El Releh; and at two, Sowektab el Ekaba, on the western bank of the river; opposite to which, on the east bank, is a small village called Howed. At four we passed Wady Rowel, on the eastern side; at five, the small village of Sidin on the same side; at six, a large village called Karmim; at three quarters past six we passed Sayal, a small village on the east bank; at a quarter past seven, Dakkel, on the same side; at twenty minutes past seven, El Fodlet; and at half past seven we moored for the night at the village of Unmatur, on the western side. We have had a good wind, and certainly cannot have made less than three miles an hour. Opposite to Unmatur is the junction of the Mugrum, the ancient Astaboras, with the Nile, isolating from the Nubian and Libyan desert this part of Meroe. For some distance before reaching it, I observed that the colour of the water was very green, and had not the usual appearance of the Nile, which is comparatively clear at this season. I perceived also that the taste was different, and that it had a strong disagreeable smell. I regret that it is now dusk, so that I cannot observe more accurately the distinction of the waters of the two rivers; but I am informed, that for some space after the confluence, they remain unmixed. The width of the Mugrum, as the Astaboras is now called, from what I could learn, is, at the time of the rise, about 1000 feet. At this season, they tell me, it is almost stagnant. It swells many days earlier than the Bahr el Abiad or the Azruk; and I think the green colour that tinges the whole Nile for the first thirty or forty days after its rise, may be attributed to the influx of the waters of this river. The chief province or district on its banks is called Atbara, evidently a corruption from the ancient name of the river, which is curious, as any analogy is rarely to be found between the modern and ancient names in this country. Two hours before arriving at the junction, we passed a small shellal (cataract). The current was strong; a number of small rocks impeding the stream for about half way across. The banks are covered with beautiful groves of acacias, doums, and palm trees, and had generally a much more verdant appearance than we had before remarked; reminding me most forcibly of the observation of the pretorians sent by Nero:
Herbas circa Meroen demum viridiores, silvarumque aliquid apparuisse.[12]
From the best information I have been able to obtain, there are seven days’ journey from the mouth of the Mugrum to Goss Radjeb, the principal village on its banks: for the two first days, the direction of this river is nearly east. There are on this route few villages; the habitations chiefly consisting of encampments of migratory Arabs, who change their stations as often as they need fresh pasture for their camels and flocks. The chief tribe frequenting the banks of the Astaboras is that of the Bishareen; but its branches were described to me as distinguished by the following distinct names: The first day’s journey east, is called the district of the Atbara; the second, that of the Eddandoweh; the third day, towards the south, Attaka; the fourth, Giberta; the fifth, Medkirab; after which the district of Makkadi extends several days beyond Goss Radjeb. A merchant informed me, that, at this latter place, there are the remains of a temple, but without any sculpture, columns, or hieroglyphics. According to the accounts given to me by the most intelligent Arabs, this river abounds much more than the Nile in hippopotami and crocodiles, and the western bank is infested with lions.
March 3. Leaving Unmatur at seven, with a good wind, we began our voyage on what Strabo calls the river Astapus, but which the natives still call the Nile: passed, at a quarter past seven, the village of Hassal, west side, and El Dahmur east, at nine, Abouselam west, and Ambori east; at half past nine, Hossya east, Maholrab west; at half past ten, the island of Essaydrab; at twelve, the island of Gunnabra and the village of El Roweh west; at half past one, El Howyeh east, El Ferakah west; at three, the island of Tumfar, and the village of Alioh, to the east; at half past three, the island of Egaydag, and village of the same name, on the western bank; at half past four, the island of Nama; at three quarters past five, Gebata to the east, and Keytayab to the west. This day I have observed that some of the villages consist of circular huts with thatched conical roofs. The water has not the same colour nor the same disagreeable smell as that near the mouth of the Astaboras. We have seen many crocodiles and several hippopotami: upon our approach they disappeared under the water; but occasionally raised their enormous heads, which, at the distance we were then, appeared like those of buffaloes. We fired at them, but without any effect. The Arabs state that their only vulnerable part is their forehead. What Hasselquist says of the manner of destroying them, by placing salt peas on the bank, the eating of which may excite them to drink until they die, amused the Arabs vastly. Their only way of killing these animals, is by concealing themselves in the long grass or corn fields on the bank, near one of their tracks. When the hippopotamus approaches, they attack and pierce him with a barbed lance, to which a strong cord is attached. The animal rushes to the river, and they follow him warily on the banks, or in a boat, until his strength is quite exhausted, and he is almost dead. His usual expiring effort is to make for the shore, or his pursuers drag him thither as an angler does a fish. The peasants sometimes keep up fires during the night, to preserve their crops from his ravages. I observed to-day several beautiful woods on the islands; and, for the first time, monkeys—the small Grey Capuchin species.
Bagromeh Meroe.—March 4. During the last night we have passed the following villages:—
| On the west bank. | Islands. | East bank. |
|---|---|---|
| Eggabrab. | Wady Abdelatif, or Valley of the Slave ofthe Beneficent. | |
| Ennuba. | El Akareet. | |
| Effadnia. | Eddyiga. | |
| Ednamaat. | Gul el Mutmoor. | |
| Es Sagadi, or the Carpet. | Es Sagadi (large island). | |
| El Camair. | Betasaat. | |
| El Helala, or the Holy Place. | Shutaib. | |
| El Makmiah. | Makmiah (small island). Es Shilalah, orthe Cataract. | Gibel Immeli. |
| Wady Youseph. | Taadra. | |
| Hillet el Gerf (village ofthe bank of the river). | Assour. | |
| Dankelah. | ||
| Bagromeh. |
Under the cheerful influence of a tropical morning, at seven, we arrived at the site of the ancient capital of Ethiopia.
CHAPTER VI.
MEROE.