The monuments of Egypt, the most wonderful ever reared by human hands, have been described by numerous travellers, though there is still ample room for more full and accurate delineation. Even the antiquities of Lower Nubia have of late been repeatedly visited. But Ethiopia, above the second cataract, including the metropolis of the ancient kingdom of Meroe, had been explored by very few Europeans, and only two Englishmen; yet it abounds with monuments rivalling those of Egypt in grandeur and beauty, and possessing, in some respects, a superior interest. According to Heeren, Champollion, Rosellini, and other eminent inquirers, whose judgment was confirmed by my own observations, this was the land whence the arts and learning of Egypt, and ultimately of Greece and Rome, derived their origin. In this remarkable country we behold the earliest efforts of human science and ingenuity.
Such were the objects which induced the Author to encounter the difficulties and hardships of a journey into the upper valley of the Nile. It were to be wished, that the task had fallen into abler hands; yet he may be permitted to mention, that he had, to a certain extent, been prepared for it, by a series of years spent in Italy, Sicily, Greece, and other countries, distinguished by splendid remains of antiquity. He resided afterwards for a year in Upper Egypt, delineating its most remarkable edifices, and studying the sculptures and the hieroglyphics. He had thus acquired considerable experience in architectural drawing, and he took care, by the use of the camera lucida, to secure the accuracy of his outline. He had, likewise, the good fortune to engage the services of a very able Italian artist. No spot of any consequence was left till a leisurely and careful delineation had been made of every object of interest which it contained. It is therefore hoped, that a tolerably complete and accurate delineation has now been made of the most important antiquities of Ethiopia.
Although the illustration of ancient monuments formed the Author’s primary object, he has not neglected to make observations on the various and often singular tribes by whom the country is at present inhabited. He has been enabled to exhibit them under a new and very peculiar aspect, as no longer proud and independent, but reduced to complete subjection under the severe sway of that extraordinary character, Mohammed Ali, Pasha of Egypt. It is hoped that some light has been thrown upon the Turkish system of government, particularly in the provinces. Perhaps, also, the narrative of his journeys through extensive tracts of desert may be read with some interest. The original form of a journal has been retained, as that in which the impressions of the observer are given in the most faithful and brief manner.
In the concluding chapters, the Author has endeavoured to collect into one view the scattered notices which alone record the history, commerce, and arts of the celebrated kingdom of Meroe, and to illustrate these by recent materials, collected by himself, and others, from the sculptures and inscriptions still remaining. Lamentably deficient as our information is on this important subject, it may be interesting to find the few particulars related in ancient history, and particularly in the sacred volume, in many respects so fully confirmed by the evidence of existing monuments.[1]
CONTENTS.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| Intended Return to Cairo. — Arrival ofArtist. — Determination to penetrate to Meroe. — Motives. —Advantages to be derived from the Discoveries of Young, Wilkinson,Champollion, and Rosellini. — Departure from Thebes. — Turkish Modeof Fasting. — Arrival at Assuan. — Hints to Travellers on TurkishEtiquette. — Nazr of Berber. — Unpromising Accounts of the Desert.— Detention for Want of Camels. — Sheakh of the Ababde Tribe. —Ruins of Elephantine and Assuan. — Bosnian Soldiers. — Water Skinsdefective. — Arrival of the Camels. — Commencement of the Journey.— Nubian Poverty. — Caravan from Khartoun. — Cultivation in LowerNubia. — Singular and Picturesque Scenery. — Nubian Peasantry andtheir Slaves. — Turkish Humanity. — Roman Enclosure at Dacker. —Provisions in Nubia. — Similarity of a modern and ancient Custom. —Nubians, their Prejudices, Poverty, Food, Want of Religion, andDrunkenness. — Their domestic Comfort, and comparative Freedom. —Wady el Arab. — Arrival at Korosko. — Preparations for crossing theGreat Nubian Desert. — The Governor of Korosko. — Drunken CopticSecretary | Page 1 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| Commencement of the Journey across theGreat Nubian Desert. — Description of the Caravan. — Advantages ofTurkish Dress and Customs. — Provisions necessary for the Desert. —Akaba, or Mountain Passes. — Dead Camels. — Fear of Robbers. —Anxiety about the Stock of Water. — Arab Opinion of Travellers. —Alarming Diminution of our Water. — Dead Bodies of Slaves andCamels. — Hojab el Jenous. — Bab el Korosko. — Age of the Camel. —Bahr Bela Ma, or Sea without Water. — Mirage. — Perils and Charmsof the Desert Life. — Dilet el Doom, Valley of the Shade of theDooms. — Gold Mines. — Omrishi Sufir. — Wells now dry. — El Murrah, or the Well of BitterWaters. — Hieroglyphics on the Rocks. — Colony of Bishareen. —Height and Character of the Mountains. — Arab Songs. — Gazelle. —Danger of leaving Caravan. — Absah Gold Mines. — Storms in theDesert. — Cambyses. — Bruce. — Arab Manner of mounting the Camel. —Manner in which the Arabs repose. — Arrival at the Nile. — Estimateof the Length of the Route and general Pace of the Camel | 17 |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| Abou-Hammed. — Fortified House of theSheakh. — Island of Mograt. — Population. — Tax to the Pasha. —Tropical Rains. — Arab Raft. — Fortunate Escape. — Manner in whichthe Camels pass the River. — Gagi. — Description of the Harem of aSheakh. — Office hereditary. — Habitation of a Sheakh. — EthiopianFlies. — Doum Trees. — Abou-Hashim and other Villages. —Cultivation. — Arab Civilities. — Berber Sheep and Goats. —Villages and Islands. — Arab Burial-ground. — General Character ofthe Country. — Tract of Desert. — Wild Asses. — Fifth Cataract. —Present State of numerous Villages. — Arrival at Makkarif, Capitalof Berber | 34 |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| Visit to the Governor. — Court andancient Chiefs of the Country. — Hospitable Reception. — TurkishEntertainments. — Character of the Governor. — His Attentions. —Style of living. — Dongolah Horses. — Anecdotes, Costumes, andPortraits of the Chiefs. — Turkish Knowledge of the Arts. — Bazaarof Makkarif. — Houses. — Manufactory of Indigo. — Extent ofCultivation. — Population. — Camels’ Hides. — Sugar Manufactory. —Ethiopian Wool. — Bishareen Tribe. — Manner of collecting theirTribute. — Ababdes and other Arab Tribes. — Turkish Policy. —Burckhardt. — Character of the People. — Arabs of the Desert | 44 |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| Departure from Makkarif. — VariousVillages. — The Mugrum, ancient Astoboras. — Route to Goss Redjab.— Verdant Appearance of the Island of Meroe. — Voyage on theAstapus. — Numerous Villages. — Cottages. — Hippopotami. — Mannerof destroying them. — Villages. — Arrival at the Pyramids ofMeroe | 62 |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| MEROE. | |
| Historical Evidence that this is theCemetery of the Capital of Ethiopia. — The imposing Appearance,Number, Position, and Dimensions of the Pyramids. — Ethiopian Arch.— Proofs that the Knowledge of the Arts descended front Ethiopia. —Edifices of a pyramidal Form the best adapted to resist the Ravagesof Time. — Peculiar Style of the Sculpture. — The Language ofHieroglyphics generally known in Ethiopia. — The Style of theSculpture the Criterion of the Age. — Monumental, geological, andhistorical Evidence that the Knowledge of the Arts descended fromMeroe. — Description of the Sculpture. — Name of Meroe on theMonuments. — Meroe peculiarly interesting, as the Birth-place ofthe Arts. — Sandstone Quarries. — Site of the City. — Villages ofthe present Inhabitants. — Agriculture. — Cailliaud | 66 |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| Departure from the Ruins. — NumerousVillages, one called Meroueer. — Shendy. — Fortified House of theMelek. — Insignificance of the present Capitals of Ethiopia. —Population of Shendy. — Bazaar. — Prices of Camels, Slaves, &c.— Manner of transacting Business. — Women of Shendy. — SlaveSystem. — Power of the ancient Meleks. — Their Wives. — Army of thePasha. — Death of Ismael Pasha. — Metammah. — The Katshef of thatPlace, and his Court. — Katshef of Shendy | 86 |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| Departure from Shendy. — Difficulties. —Desert. — Visit from and Anecdotes of Lions. — Immense Ruins. —Confusion of the Plan. — Built by bad Architects. — DetailedDescription of the principal Temple. — Style of the Sculpture. —Other Ruins. — Singular Situation of the Ruins. — The Purpose forwhich they were constructed. — Their probable Age | 94 |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| Deficiency of Water. — Return to theNile. — Wild Animals. — Ancient Canal. — Temple of Abou Naga. —Difficulties. — The modern Capitals of Ethiopia. — Sennaar. — TheDifficulty of penetrating to the Source of the Bahr el Abiad. —Tribe of Arabs on its Banks. — Water less sweet than that of theBahr el Azruk. — Arab Description of the River. — Inundation of theNile. — Return to Shendy. — Mameluke Exercise | 111 |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
| Metammah. — Difficulty of finding Camelsto cross the Bahiouda Desert. — Wretched State of the Peasants whenattacked by Illness. — Intermittent Fevers. — Costumes of Metammah.— Women of high Rank. — Their long Nails. — Manner of increasingtheir Length. — Bahiouda Desert. — Wells at Aboulay. — Reflectionson the Desert Life. — Shageea Tribe. — Wells called Gagdool. —Signor B. unwell. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Animals of the Desert. —Greyhound Dog. — Well of Magaga. — Dangerous Illness of Signor B. —Well of delicious Water called Haless. — Beauty of the Scenery. —Shepherd Boys. — Character of the Rocks. — Wells of good Watercalled Hannek and Prasoli. — The Manner the Shageea salute. —Coptic Christian Church. — Arrival at the Town of Meroueh. —Hieroglyphics on a Slab in the Castle | 123 |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
| Antiquities of Gibel el Birkel. —Description and Dimensions of the Mountain. — Temple built by theTirhaka of the Bible. — Various other interesting Remains andTemples. — Pyramids. — Circular and pointed Arch invented inEthiopia | 134 |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
| Present Inhabitants of Birkel. — FuneralCeremonies in the Mahometan Burial-grounds. — Name of Rameses II.or Sesostris. — Description of the present State of the Country. —Indigo Manufactories. — The Shageea Tribe. — One of their Meleks. —Pyramids of Nouri, dilapidated State. — Curious Construction ofone. — General Dimensions. — Antiquity. — Comparison between theancient and modern Buildings of Ethiopia. — Return to Meroueh. —Turkish Manner of being paid for Services. — Voyage down the Nile.— Numerous Villages. — Shageea Tribe. — Intoxication, Learning,&c. — Various Villages and Islands. — Effects of the Climateand other Peculiarities of this Country on the Character of thePeople. — Noble Manners of the Arabs. — Dongolah Agous. — ProbableSite of Napata. — Negro Slaves. — Effects of the Cruelty of theirOwners. — Encroachments of the Desert. — Cultivation. —Peasants | 160 |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
| Visit to the Governor. — Extent of hisGovernment. — Indigo. — Water Wheels. — Population. — Taxes. —Prices of Produce. — Oasis of Dongolah, called El Gab. — Route to Kordofan. —Information about that Country. — Baneful Climate. — CaptainGordon. — Arab Tribes of Kordofan. — General Appearance of NewDongolah. — The Bazaar. — Curious Use of Ointment. — Merchandise. —The Bazaar. — Slave Market. — Commerce carried on by Barter. —Curious Manner of effecting Sales. — Dongolah Goldsmith. —Auctioneers. — Various Arab Tribes. — Costumes. — Women, theElegance of their Attire. — Breaking of the Rat. —Giraffe. — Hassanyeh Tribe. — Elephants | 176 |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
| Marriage and other Ceremonies ofDongolah. — Character of the People, their Habitations. — Women,their Amusements. — Arab Tale. — Government of Dongolah | 189 |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
| Departure from Dongolah. — NumerousVillages. — Island of Argo. — Residence of the Melek. — ArabAccountants. — Melek Tumbol. — Extent of his Territory. — ArabManners compared with European. — Philosophy of the Arabs. — TheMelek’s Dinner. — Military Force. — Garden. — Visit to theAntiquities. — Numerous Vestiges of ancient Towns. — ColossalStatues. — Remains of a large Temple. — Name of Sabaco, theConqueror of Egypt. — Entertainment of an Arab Sheakh. — Richnessof the Island. — Indigo. — Ethiopian Fort. — Cataract of Toumbos. —Mutilated colossal Statue. — Hospitality of an Arab Sheakh. —Character of the Inhabitants. — Hippopotamus. — AlarmingIntelligence. — Revolt of the Mahas. — Dreadful Consequences. — Ourprovidential Escape. — Arab Stories of Travellers | 204 |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
| Return to New Dongolah. — The Governor. —His Indecision. — General Alarm. — Interview with the Governor. —His difficult Situation and Want of Energy. — Increase of theInsurgents. — Retreat of the Katshef of Haffeer. — Troops marchedout against the Insurgents. — Fears about the Result. — Their Army.— The Battle. — Effects of the Revolt. — Roads impassable. — Returnof the Expedition. — Turkish and Arab Evolutions. — Hassanyeh. —Funge. — Curious Assemblage. — Lululoo of the Women. —Turkish System of Government in the Provinces, and present State ofthe Peasantry and Arabs of the Desert above Wady Halfah | 222 |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
| Departure from El Ourde. — Alarms of theCaravan. — Melek Backeet. — Return to Haffeer. — Detention in theIndigo Manufactory. — Nubian Plants. — Second Expedition of theGovernment. — Fanaticism of the Insurgents. — The Battle. —Prisoners. — Departure from Haffeer. — Description of the Caravan.— Cataract. — Effects of the Revolution. — Splendid Ruins of Solib.— Excavated Tomb near Solib. — Ruins of Sukkot. — Heat of theClimate. — Island of Sais. — Remains of Christian Ruins. —Destructive Effects of the Desert | 237 |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
| Kasr Towaga. — Difficulty of crossing theRiver. — Indolence of the Arabs. — Arab Sheakh. — Temple of Amarah.— Present Inhabitants. — Wady el Hadjar. — Fortified House on anIsland at Dahl. — Cataract of Uckma. — Bigotry of the Inhabitants.— Various Cataracts of the Nile. — Mineral Spring at Tangoure. —Temples of Semneh, on the Western Bank. — Curious Manner ofcrossing the River. — Temple of Semneh, on the Eastern Bank. —Inscriptions on the Rocks. — The Arab Robber Isah. — SecondCataract of the Nile. — Inducements for Travellers to extend theirJourney beyond this Point. — Comparison between Voyages in theDesert and at Sea | 259 |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
| ON THE HISTORY OF MERGE. | |
| Obscurity of her Annals. — HistoricalAssociations necessary to render a Country interesting. — Works ofArt historical Documents. — Lapidary Inscriptions. — Amunoph III. —Memnon, King of Ethiopia. — Expedition of Semiramis, Queen ofAssyria, into Ethiopia. — Ethiopians in the Army of Shishak marchedto Jerusalem. — The Sukkiims of Scripture. — Expedition of Zerah,the Ethiopian King of the Bible, and his Defeat by the Tribes ofJudah and Benjamin. — The Ethiopian Dynasty of Kings who reignedover Egypt. — The Testimony of the Historians proved by lapidaryInscriptions. — The Name of Tirhaka, King of Ethiopia, who defeatedSennacherib, King of Assyria, found both on the Monuments of Egyptand Ethiopia. — The Names and Titles of this Dynasty of Kings. —Accordance of the Scriptural, monumental, and historical Evidences.— The Sethos of Herodotus, the Tirhaka of Scripture and of theMonuments. — The Sua,King of Egypt of the Bible, the Sevechus of Manetho, and theShabatok of the Monuments | 284 |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
| The Emigration of Egyptian Soldiers atthe Time of Psammitichus. — Expedition of Cambyses. — Manners,Customs, &c. of the Macrobians, &c. — Curious Customs ofthe Ethiopians. — Ergamenes, the Ethiopian King’s, Conquests inLower Nubia. — Atarraman and Silco, Ethiopian Kings. — Expeditionof Petronius. — Queen Candace. — Christianity first introduced intoEthiopia. — Its Duration. — Napata, Capital of Candace. — Blemmyesand the Nubians | 306 |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | |
| ON THE COMMERCE OF MEROE. | |
| Requisites for a State enjoying extensiveCommerce. — Advantageous Position of Meroe. — Probable Extent ofher Commerce. — The Facility afforded to its Extension by Means ofthe Camel. — Commerce of Arabia and India. — Abundance of Gold. —Iron and Gum. — Ethiopian Tribute to Egypt. — Description of asplendid Ethiopian Procession at Thebes. — Commerce of theInterior. — Causes of the Decline of Meroe. — Diminution of heragricultural Resources. — Exhaustion of Mines. — Rivalry of Egypt.— Wars with Egypt. — Arab Conquest. — Present Commerce | 321 |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | |
| ON THE ARTS OF MEROE. | |
| Affluence would introduce a Taste for theArts. — The Heat of the Climate favourable to Sedentary Pursuits. —Private Emulation would afford farther Encouragement. — Desire ofdistinguishing themselves by Intellectual Pursuits. — Testimony ofDiodorus that Knowledge was very generally diffused in Ethiopia. —The Pyramids of Meroe the oldest Specimens of Ethiopian Art. —Civilisation of the Ethiopians proved by their monumental Edifices.— The Ethiopians Inventors of the Arch. — Egyptian Arches. —Ethiopian Sculpture. — Probable Cause of their peculiar Style. —Reasons for preserving it. — Deference of the Ptolemies and Romansfor the Superstitions of the Egyptians. — Pleasing Effect of theEgyptian and Ethiopian Sculpture. — Admirable Manner of drawingAnimals, Hieroglyphics, and their Taste in Ornaments. — Colouringon Ethiopian Sculpture. — The Knowledge of the Arts descendedfrom Ethiopia. —Complexion of the ancient and present Inhabitants. — Accuracy ofDiodorus’s Account proved by the Monuments. — Taste for the Arts ina Nation inseparable from other Intellectual Pursuits. — Works ofthe Ethiopian King Tirhaka. — Review of the Antiquities inEthiopia. — Folly of comparing the present with the ancientInhabitants of the Valley of the Nile | 346 |