CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
PAGE
The Dual Monarchy [1]
CHAPTER II
The Making of Modern Austria [17]
CHAPTER III
The Emperor [31]
CHAPTER IV
The Country of Hungary [40]
CHAPTER V
The People [62]
CHAPTER VI
The Austrian Danube [82]
CHAPTER VII
Vienna and the Viennese [92]
CHAPTER VIII
A Mighty Quartette [102]
CHAPTER IX
Vienna to Budapest [112]
CHAPTER X
The Danube below Budapest [124]
CHAPTER XI
Bohemia and other Lands [131]
CHAPTER XII
The Tyrol and its Heroes [154]
CHAPTER XIII
The Mountain Passes [166]
CHAPTER XIV
The Dolomites [175]
CHAPTER XV
The Illyrian State [184]
CHAPTER XVI
Transylvania and Galicia [199]
INDEX [211]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN COLOUR

1. The Wachau, Aggstein [Frontis
piece]
FACING
PAGE
2. Hohensalzburg [18]
3. A Pine Forest in the Tátra [41]
4. A Road in the Carpathians [48]
5. A Young Magyar Csikós [51]
6. Magyar Shepherds [54]
7. The Ortler Spitze [57]
8. A Paprika-Seller, Kalocsa [64]
9. Woman’s Work-day Costume in Kalocsa [75]
10. Sunday Costume, Zsdjar [78]
11. Roumanian Children bringing Water to be blessed in the Greek Church, Desze [89]
12. Vienna: Castle Schönbrunn [96]
13. Vienna: Mozart’s House [105]
14. The Houses of Parliament and Margit Bridge, Budapest [112]
15. Cottages in the Alföld [123]
16. Waste Lands near Kalocsa [126]
17. Prague: The Hradschin from Wallensteinstrasse [137]
18. Prague: Carl’s Bridge [144]
19. Carinthia: Maria-Wörth on the Wörthersee [147]
20. Styria: The Grimming, from Pürgg [150]
21. Innsbruck [161]
22. Kufstein [168]
23. Inn Valley in Winter [171]
24. Cortina and Mte. Cristallo [174]
25. King Laurin’s Rose-Garden, from the Schlern [177]
26. Marmolata, from very high above Canazei [179]
27. The Drei Zinnen, from the Highest Ridge [182]
28. Clissa: A Study in Grey Rock [184]
29. Spalato: A Door in Diocletian’s Palace [195]
30. Ragusa: The Ploče Road from San Giacomo: Morning [198]
31. Harvest-time in Transylvania [201]
32. Cracow: Barbarakapelle [208]
Sketch Map at [End of Volume].

AUSTRIA-HUNGARY

CHAPTER I
THE DUAL MONARCHY

No one can rightly enjoy a visit to a country unless he knows something of its history and its heroes; otherwise much that is seen remains meaningless. It is a common saying among oculists that we see with the brain and not with the eye, and the saying is fulfilled when we pass by, as without meaning, this or that magnificent statue embodying in concrete marble or bronze an epoch of vital action in the history of a nation.

But besides what we miss from want of that observation whose roots are embedded in knowledge, there are other things duly noted, and but half comprehended, with a vagueness that is irritating. Especially is this the case in a country of such an amalgamate nature as Austria-Hungary, where at every turn something unexpected challenges query. How comes it, for instance, that having left behind a Parliament House in Vienna we find another in Budapest though both own allegiance to the same sovereign? Why should Hungarians be so much exasperated if their country is spoken of as part of an empire when they acknowledge an Emperor as their ruler?

To gain some grip of these matters a short historical introduction is undoubtedly necessary. I do not think, however, that history should always begin at the beginning, though many people have a passion for delving into the past and groping after the roots of a subject, which often prove, when unearthed, to be exceedingly dry. The same tendency may be observed in writers of biography, who are rarely content to begin with the man or woman whose life they are undertaking, or even with their parents, but frequently go back through many centuries, dwelling at dreary length upon tedious details which occupy half the book before the pith and core of the matter is reached.

Hence in this very cursory sketch of the Dual Monarchy only so much as is essential to give colour and life to the whole book in all its aspects shall be dealt with.