CHAPTER IX.

Leave Sockna — Stop at Hammam — Well of Temedd — Sufferings of the Slaves — Arrive at Bonjem — Danger on the Desert — Zemzem — Sofageen — Storm in the Mountains — See two Roman Ruins — Arrive at Zleetun — Description of that Place — Leave Zleetun — Visit Lebida — Illness — Arrival at Tripoli — Account of the Negroes of the Kafflé — General Notices of the Desert — Belford’s bad State of Health — Departure from Tripoli — Pass Quarantine at Leghorn — Return over the Continent to England.

Friday, 3rd of March.—Hadge Mohammed brought a poor girl to me for advice. She was very feverish and light-headed, and complained of excessive pain in the chest, for which I bled and gave her some cooling medicine. At seven we proceeded, having filled water for three days, the well immediately before us being unfit to drink; our road lay over a gravelly plain. At 12.15. mountains closed in from the left to those on the right, which at the distance of half a mile ran parallel to our road; they were of yellow limestone and sand, and all table-topped. We passed along a Wadey closely bounded by mountains, until two, when we stopped for my patient, who had lagged behind; her unfeeling master, contrary to my earnest request, having suffered her to walk, while he lazily rode a camel. She arrived in about an hour, very weak, and in much pain; and would have been beaten, had I not interposed. I gave her some cotton impregnated with lemon-juice, to steep in water, which a little refreshed her. A strong sand wind set in from the westward, and much distressed us: we had no remedy for it, but to lie down, and occasionally to rise and free ourselves from the heaps of sand which rapidly collected over our clothes. We had made this day north by east seventeen miles. In the evening, the wind having somewhat abated, I got a piece of leather sewed on to the hard skin under my Maherry’s foot.

Saturday, March 4th.—Fine morning. We went on about two miles to a well called Temedd, the water of which is black, and resembles in taste Glauber’s salts, and cabbage water. My horse refused to drink it; but a large supply was laid in for the poor slaves. At 9.30. left the well, and at 10.15. turned off through two mountains north-east by east. The Wadey we had just left runs three miles north of the well, and is called Tarr. At 10.15. opened on a gravelly plain; at five stopped amongst a few little low bushes. The pass through which we had come bore south 15° west, and we had made from it about fourteen miles. We had a strong blinding sand wind blowing over us all this day from the westward.

The poor girl who had ridden on a camel was now free from fever, but very weak and low-spirited. I gave her good water and cusscussou.

Sunday, 5th of March.—At 7.30. we went on, still over a sandy plain, with a few small shrubs; a strong wind, with much sand, blowing from the north-west. These winds blow in sudden gusts, and remind me of the whirlwinds called “cats’-paws” in the navy. The Negress being unable to sit upright, was lashed on the camel she rode. She continually asked for water, and complained of a severe pain in her side. I had applied a blister to it overnight, but I suspect the pain it gave her caused her to remove it. Her master troubled his head very little about her; and her voice was, in consequence of her sufferings, so feeble, that had I not rode near her, and supplied her with water, she would have perished from thirst. At 4.50. came to rugged ground; and at 5.20. mountains closed in to the left: passed at the foot of one. At six stopped, having made about twenty-five miles north. I persuaded the girl’s master to let her remain under my care until she was a little recovered, as I should then be enabled to bestow more attention on her than he could, or was inclined to do: at this time she was very cold, quite speechless, and unable to swallow. I wrapped her up in my carpet, and made two of her fellow slaves chafe her hands and feet; but our efforts to save her were useless, and she breathed her last at eight o’clock, having, poor girl! suffered much agony. Her fellows in misery exhibited a striking difference between the mourners of civilized towns and those of savage countries: instead of screaming, and working themselves up into frenzy, they sat silent, dejected, and bathed in tears, their scanty meal remaining for a time unnoticed and untouched. The country of this poor girl was Waday, where Arabic is spoken. She was handsome, and about fourteen years of age. She told me in the morning that the fatigue of the day would kill her; and that I was the only person, except her companions, who had treated her kindly since she was taken from her mother. She had been ailing for a long time, as she said; but her master was a hard man, and she feared to complain.

Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon. On Stone by D. Dighton.

A Slave Kaffle.

London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.