About the beginning of April, a dangerous fever broke out and was making great ravages in Tripoli, many of the inhabitants dying daily in the town and gardens. On my arrival, I made an attempt to obtain an interview with the Bashaw, but his highness was not at first sufficiently disengaged to allow of my paying my respects to him. At the end of a fortnight, however, I was admitted to an audience, and was accompanied by the British consul; who jointly with myself, thanked him for the attention which had been shown to the Mission, by the people of the interior, in consequence of his patronage.
The Bashaw was much amused by my having acquired the language and accent of Fezzan, and conversed with me for some time, asking me a variety of questions respecting what had occurred to me on my journey. He promised, that on the event of my returning to Africa, I should always be secure of his friendship: and on my taking leave of him, desired I would offer his compliments to my Sovereign.
It would be useless and uninteresting were I to relate the trifling incidents which occurred to me during the remainder of my stay at Tripoli. I shall therefore merely mention, that on the 14th of May I procured a passage to Leghorn for Belford and myself, taking with me my horse, which was a gift from the Bashaw, and a Maherry, or courier camel, which I intended to present to his Majesty George IV.
Dr. Dickson was unwilling to allow of Belford’s undertaking the voyage, fearing that his weakness would not enable him to resist any severe weather; but as Belford thought himself equal to the attempt, and as we were naturally impatient to return to England, I resolved no longer to delay my departure. I cannot omit the opportunity here offered me of expressing my sense of the kindness invariably shown me by Col. Warrington, the British Consul; from whom, as well as from his family, I received the most unremitting attention. I can only sincerely lament my total inability to do justice to his friendship, evinced towards me not only in his official capacity, but individually, and on all occasions where he had the power of serving me. To some other most kind friends, who assisted me in the hour of need, I have also to offer my sincere tribute of thanks.
Myself and suffering companion left Tripoli on the 19th of May; and, after a passage of ten days, arrived at Leghorn. Belford was again so ill, that I found it necessary to call in the assistance of a medical gentleman, who visited him frequently at the Lazaretto. Our quarantine was twenty-five days, in a good airy situation; on leaving which we removed to the town, prior to setting out overland for England. We hastened to change our dresses, and to shave our beards, though not before we had been unwillingly exhibited to many curious, and, in some cases, troublesome visitors, who came to view us in our Moorish costume.
During the time of our quarantine the minister of Mohammed Ali, the Bashaw of Egypt, honoured me with a visit; and after asking me many questions, and ascertaining my knowledge of Arabic, made known to me that his master was about to send, on a progress of discovery, a large armed force, southward and westward from Egypt, and that he was particularly anxious to engage some European to accompany them, in order to survey the countries which they proposed exploring. He hinted, that on the event of my offering my services, I should, no doubt, be very flatteringly received, and that a most liberal allowance would be made for my outfit, as well as for my services; and the month of November was the period fixed for the departure of the expedition: in short, he held out so many advantages, that I only refused on the score of my being in the service of my own government, who might, perhaps, again require me to return to Africa. From the plan thus laid down to me, I saw clearly, that on the event of my accompanying the Bashaw of Egypt’s army, I could with ease ascertain the situation in which the Niger ended, as I should have to pass into a country from whence I well knew how to proceed, and to which, should I ever again return to Africa, I would immediately make my way.
On the 29th of June we left Leghorn; and passing overland, arrived in London on the 29th of July, 1820. In travelling through France I was so severely attacked by ophthalmia, as to be nearly deprived of sight; but on my arrival in England, I soon recovered. Belford continued still deaf and much emaciated, and, as I feared, with little prospect of ever regaining health or strength. I must observe, in justice to this my faithful, though humble companion, that during the service on which we were engaged, both prior to, and after the death of Mr. Ritchie, his conduct was such as to ensure my perfect esteem and confidence. He did not possess the advantages of birth or education; but his quiet, unobtrusive manners, and excellent disposition, made ample amends for these deficiencies. In the most trying moments, when all distinction between man and man is levelled, he never lost sight of the respect he considered due to me; but in sickness faithfully nursed me, and in health implicitly obeyed all my directions.
On my arrival in London, I waited on Earl Bathurst, to acquaint his lordship with the result of the mission; and delivered up the whole of the public papers belonging to the late Mr. Ritchie.