Wednesday, February 10th.—At 7.10. A.M. we left Beni abbās, and went on for the Castle of Gharian, or Gusser Turk قسرطيرك. After having proceeded over the plain, and reached the mountains that rise from it, we climbed a steep peak, and making our way along a sharp ledge on its top, again ascended to the mountain of Tekoot, the principal of the range. From this point we took the bearings of the following remarkable objects: Beni abbās, north 33° east. Gusser Turk, south 35° west. A mountain called Meroobi, south 55° east, and another mountain, west 5° south, distant about twenty-five miles, inhabited at this time by a rebel tribe under a chief called Kalēefa. Owing to the height of the spot on which we stood, we found it difficult to distinguish many objects, which from the plain had appeared very conspicuous. Unfortunately, before we ascended this mountain we had broken our Barometer, and were thence unable to ascertain its precise elevation. Here is the tomb of a Marāboot, whose sanctity is the subject of many extraordinary stories.
It was from hence that the Arabs, when they declared war against the Bashaw (which formerly happened very frequently), announced their rising to their allies and neighbouring tribes, by signals of a fire at night, and a smoke by day. Three poor Arabs followed us up the mountain, pointing out to us the most remarkable surrounding objects: they gathered for us some small black berries from a low thorny tree, with yellow flowers, which they called Dummagh ظمّاح or “brains,” and which had an astringent taste, somewhat resembling that of a ripe sloe, but the fruit was much smaller. They told us that the Arabs of Gharian always spoke with gratitude of the English Consul, who had once persuaded the Bashaw not to increase their tribute, as he intended.
At noon we arrived at a cluster of nests called El Guasem القاسو about six miles from Beni abbās: all the habitations of this place are of the same kind as those already described; we, however, found a small uninhabited shed above ground, situated at the foot of a little turret, where we deposited our goods, and determined on passing the night. From the inscriptions which we found in this building, it must be about 150 years old. The present Bashaw, his father, grand and great grandfather, had all slept in the smoky corner, of which we now took possession. The turret itself is constructed in a mode common to many others in these mountains. At about half way down one of the subterranean passages, a hole is cut upwards in an awkward way through the rock into the first floor of the turret, which is even with the ground, and perfectly dark, except where here and there a small stone is pushed out to make way for the muzzle of a musket. From this floor is an ascent to one, two, or three stories, by means of pieces of stick placed in the walls. Each floor consists of branches of trees, most alarmingly elastic, and the door of entrance from one to the other is a small hole, through which a person has to force himself upwards. All these military buildings manifest a noble contempt of architectural skill, or neatness. On the side of a small hill near the village are caves of some magnitude, from which good millstones are procured. At this place we fared as we did the evening before, though the Chowse had a most vociferous conversation with the Sheikh before he could get any barley for the horses. We were well sheltered, and sufficiently warm, for we had a good fire in the centre of the hut, and slept at one end of it, while our people and the Chowse’s mare occupied the other. It rained very hard all night.
Thursday, February 11th.—At 7 A.M. we started, after making the Sheikh a present, and wound along amongst the mountains in the direction of the castle. Tekoot, bearing north three miles, we discovered a Roman building in the form of a tomb, or perhaps a very large altar; it was about twelve feet square, standing on two or three broad steps, which seem to have had a neat cornice. From the present appearance of the ruins, the original building must have been ten or twelve feet in height. We could discern no inscription. Our road hence was once more over very difficult passes, from which we expected to have had a delightful view, but the mountains, to our great regret, became obscured by a thick mist.
These mountains separated into a deep romantic valley, which appeared to run immediately down to the desert. The tops were in a very superior state of cultivation; figs, olives, and vines flourishing on every spot which had sufficient earth to nourish them. We observed many of the trees ornamented with the skulls of horses, camels, or sheep, to protect the tree and its fruit from being blasted by the “Evil Eye.” At two we came to the castle, an immense ill-constructed building of rough stones, having a turret at each corner, an open court, and stalls for horses, embrasures for cannon (closed up with mud), and here and there a loophole for musketry. There are five or six six-pounders upset, and honeycombed, to make a show; but I conceive the Bashaw would find no one daring enough to fire them. The key of the castle (which is never used but by the Kaid when he comes to collect tribute for the Bey, to whom Gharian belongs), is kept by a neighbouring Sheikh. Our Chowse was here of great importance, for being in the service of the Bey, all the Arabs came to kiss his hands, and bring him presents, and he consequently assumed a very dignified and solemn demeanour. At night one of our camel boys, who had the office of porter assigned to him, brought the key of the gate to the Chowse, and reported all right. We were informed very seriously, that the room in which we slept was haunted by a Ghole, and several devils, in consequence of some prisoners having had their throats cut there a short time before.
Friday, February 12th.—Our porter had been so very careful over night, that we were half an hour unlocking, unbarring, and unbolting, before we could get out. Mr. Ritchie and myself then sallied forth, he to botanize, and I with my gun in search of animals called Gundy قندي. After lying down flat in the rain for three or four hours, I was fortunate enough to shoot three, which I prepared, in order that they might be sent to the British Museum, and I believe they will be the first of the species known in Europe. These animals resemble very much a Guinea pig in form, but are of a light-brown mouse colour. The fur is longer than that of a rat, and is very silky; the eyes are black, large, and prominent; the orifices of the ears (which are quite flat against the side of the head) are also black, and free from hair; the tail, or rather a little stump resembling one, is just perceptible to the touch, and from it grows a bunch or tuft of long black hair. The body is very round and fat, and particularly broad at the shoulders. These animals burrow amongst the rocks. They are eaten with great relish by the Arabs, and no doubt are very good, as the flesh is exceedingly white and fat, and resembles that of a rabbit.
At about half a mile from the castle is a place called Tghrasat تغراسات at which a Bazaar is held weekly, and whither all the mountaineers resort. At two we passed this place, and went about four miles south to a village called Tegerinna طجرنّه, where the inhabitants live above as well as under ground. We pitched our tents in a saffron field, and had our horses shod by a Jew blacksmith. He afterwards prepared in his house a fine lamb, and very white bread, for our dinners, of which the Chowse pocketed all we did not eat. We made the poor man a present, to his great astonishment; for no one, if he can avoid it, performs any act of kindness to these persecuted people. In the evening we had many visitors, amongst others the Sheikh, who was all curiosity, and ready for as many presents as we chose to make him.
From this place, three other above-ground villages bore south by west two miles. They were called Usadena. The inhabitants, male and female, had all been murdered on the Bashaw’s conquering the country, and the buildings were entirely ruined.
Gharian is famed for the excellence of its oil, the richness of its saffron, which is produced in great quantities, and the goodness of its corn. The people are fine, well made men, and have an air of freedom, which their change of circumstances has not been able to conquer. In collecting the tribute for the Bey, each man pays in kind a certain portion of his harvest. The Jews are employed to weigh and prepare the Bey’s share, and are well paid by the Arabs, in order that they may give short measure; for although using false weights is by the law of Mohammed a heinous crime, yet they fancy the sin is not incurred if the Jews defraud for them.
Of the dress, food, &c. of the Arabs, I shall treat more fully in a future page.