Thursday, 18th February.—This being market day, a few sheep and goats were brought on the plain before the gate. There were also dates, corn, and gunpowder, but in small quantities. We bought a sheep and some dates. It rained the whole of this day; but at night it cleared up. The Sheikh came to see us, and brought us a bowl of Bazeen, in return for which we gave him some powder. The Population amounts to about 2000, as near as I could judge; but the habitations are so scattered along the sides of the Wadey, that no very just estimate can be given.
Mr. Ritchie was requested to obtain the pardon of the prisoners in the castle, who had been guilty of resisting an attempt to drive off their flocks for the service of the Bashaw, and he promised to intercede for them; but we were overtaken, when on our return to Tripoli, by a man, who informed us that they had all been killed.
Mr. Ritchie, by two observations, made the latitude of Benioleed, 31°. 45′ north.
Friday, 19th February.—Having somewhat refreshed ourselves and cattle, we left this place at eight A.M.; and, ascending the side of the Wadey, proceeded during the whole day over a rocky flat, perfectly barren, until six P.M., when we stopped, having made, north 20° west, thirty miles. We saw this day two large vultures, but scarcely within shot of us.
Saturday, 20th February.—Our road this day improved, and we went through several fertile Wadeys, and over plains of fine grass. We passed also several herds of female camels, with their young, and many flocks of sheep. At three, our road began to rise, and we saw many tents of the Arabs of Terhoona ترحونه, who were attending their flocks: some of them were changing their quarters, and we were much amused by different parties, who were travelling on the same road as ourselves. Women and children were riding the camels, which were also laden with their tents and furniture. At seven, we came amongst the mountains, and arrived at the wells of Melghrā ملغرا, which have excellent water. There are several little streams from the sides of the hills, which run through the valley; and there is much game here, principally partridges and snipes.
Sunday, 21st February.—At eight A.M., we left the wells, and passed through winding defiles at the foot of the mountains until noon, when we cleared them, and opened on a sandy plain, covered in some places with verdure, and having great quantities of the Khandal حندل or Colycynth. On passing some Arab tents, the children brought us small roots, of the shape of young potatoes; but resembling mushrooms in taste, smell, and tenderness. They grow in the sand, and the Arabs call them Terfaas ترفاس. We here drank some camel’s milk for the first time. It is much less rich than that of a cow, and saltish to the taste. We also procured a skin full of sour butter-milk, which is much esteemed by the Arabs, who call it Libban لبّان. It is never drank in a sweet state; but is allowed, after the butter is made, to stand until it tastes and smells very sour.
In the afternoon, the country over which we passed had many bushes; and at five, we came to a well, near a Marāboot’s tomb, having made, north 43° west, twenty-four miles. The well, near which we were, was 288 feet in depth, and the water brackish. In the evening a man came to request Mr. Ritchie to take an Arab under his protection to Tripoli, and endeavour to procure for him the Bashaw’s pardon, he being the only one remaining of a rebel tribe, which had been destroyed. The offender was in the Marāboots’ tombs, which was considered a sanctuary; but, on our mounting our horses in the morning, he was to follow us at full speed, and claim the protection of the British flag.
Monday, 22d.—We waited some time for this man, and at last were obliged to proceed to Tripoli without him. Our road was over very steep and irregular sand hills. At three P.M. we arrived, having made, north-west, twenty miles. As I now had many opportunities of seeing the Arabs amongst their own tribes, and had greatly familiarised myself with them, I obtained some knowledge of their manners and customs, which I will endeavour to describe in giving an account of this extraordinary race of people.
OF THE ARABS.
The Arabs are, generally speaking, tall, straight, and well formed, and inclined, from their manner of living, to be thin and muscular. Their countenances are expressive and handsome, their form of face oval, and their noses aquiline. Although naturally white, their complexion becomes dark from continual exposure to the sun, and from not being very particular in their ablutions. They are active; capable of undergoing great fatigue and abstinence from food; lively in their manners; daring, and possessed of much cunning: though generous, they are great beggars; revengeful and unforgiving. The general costume of the men is a large loose shirt and trowsers of cotton, sandals, or tight half boots of red leather, which lace in front, fit close round the ankle, and rise as high as the calf of the leg. On their heads they wear a red cap, which is long enough to hang a little down on one side; from the top of it falls a tassel of blue silk. A wrapper of woollen (from about twenty to twenty-five feet in length, and five or six in breadth), woven rather more compactly than flannel, is thrown round the body in folds, part being placed over the head in the manner of a hood, while the end is thrown over the left shoulder, and hangs down behind the back. This article of dress has several names, according to its texture. The most coarse and heavy is called Aba. That between this and the finest (called Jereed) is named Kholi; but in Tripoli, all three are known under the appellation of Barracan. A large cloak, having a hood, and no sleeves, and composed of closely and well-woven wool without a seam, is used in rainy or cold weather over the Barracan, and is called Bornouse. The dress of the females differs but little from that of the men in materials, but they put it on in a different manner. The poorest class wear only the Barracan, which is passed over the head and fastened at the waist; others have a shirt in addition to this. Young women wear their hair in tresses, to which they attach beads, pieces of coral, silver, or any other gaudy thing which they can procure; and they have one or two large silver ornaments in the form of crescents, fastened on the right side of the head, on which they also frequently wear a large woollen turban of blue, wrapped carelessly round. From their ears are suspended a multitude of silver rings, and round their necks they hang rows of beads of various colours. The old women frizzle their hair over the forehead, so as to make it project to some distance; and they dye it of a dull red, with the leaves of a plant called Henna, which gives it the appearance of red wool. All the females have a practice of tattooing their chins, the tips of their noses, and between the eyebrows. Their necks and arms are also frequently marked. The favourite figure is that of a hand, which is intended to avert the “Evil Eye.” They wear red lacing boots, in the same manner as the men. When young (that is to say, fifteen or sixteen), they have fine figures, and are exceedingly handsome; but they soon lose their good looks and pleasing form, and become as ugly as they were before beautiful. Their eyes are black and large; their noses straight and well proportioned; they have small lips, and their teeth are exquisitely white. Nothing, in fact, can exceed in prettiness an Arab girl; but the old women are, without exception, the most disgusting and hideous creatures I ever beheld. Both sexes blacken their eyelids with Kohol, or lead ore powdered, which adds much to the brilliancy of the eye, and makes it appear larger than it really is. They all wear an immense quantity of Agebs عجب, or Charms, against disorders and misfortunes.