April 9th.—At 6.15. A.M. started over a flat, which had no break to the view, except very distant mountains. Two hours and a half from the time of our setting off there is a solitary tree, which is considered as one day’s journey from water. Slaves, in coming from this water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree in question, which is one of the longest stages in the journey from Fezzan. The distant mountains had the appellation of Khod el Khādem, خدالخادم (or “take the negress.”) The plain was called El Grarat Arab Hoon, الغرارت عرب حون. At 7 P.M. we entered a pass called Hormut taad atar, خرموت طعداتر. And after passing through a winding wadey, closely hemmed in by the mountains, at 9 we stopped near a well of very brackish, stinking water, situated in a small plain, which here opens out in a circular form. Still no fodder for our camels. A man joined us with some stewed meat for the Sultan, and a load of water, from Sockna; and we procured a bowl of the latter, which afforded us no small treat. The well here, in hot seasons, is dry, and even at this period was very low. The horses, with great avidity, sucked up the mud which was thrown out of it. Strong sand wind from the southward.
April 10th.—At 6.10. A.M. set off. At 7 cleared the pass, and proceeded to a small wadey, where, in spite of a strong Siroc, we succeeded in pitching our tents. The sand, however, flew about in such quantities, that we were unable to prepare any food, and we could not even see thirty yards from us. Mukni took shelter with us, and advised that we should strip to our shirts, as the lightest way of withstanding the sand showers. Mr. Ritchie here presented him with one of our tents, it being much superior to his own. In the afternoon, the wind having a little subsided, we cleared away the heaps of sand which had collected round our goods, and allowed the camels to graze on the small bushes until 3 o’clock. We found, on examining some of our stores, that a large organ had been burst by the heat, and excessive dryness of the wind; a discovery by no means welcome to us. At 3.15. P.M. struck our tent, and again made our way over the plain until 7, when we stopped amongst some palms, which were thickly planted in a range of sand hills. There were two wells of tolerably fresh water at this place, which is called Hammam, حامام. From hence we could easily have made our way to Sockna; but as the Sultan preferred entering in the morning, we were content to stop, and get our heads shaved, as well as to enjoy a good washing, which was very requisite, as we were not over clean. The Sultan’s people were also employed in preparing themselves; and a large convoy of drummers, bag-pipers, and others, joined us in the night, mounted on asses, in order to precede his majesty to his city of Sockna.
April 11th.—At 7 A.M. proceeded with the Sultan and his escort, but found we were sadly in the back-ground with respect to outward appearance. Unfortunately we had not thought it necessary to put on any of our embroidered clothes, having no idea that so much finery was to be displayed; and whilst all the slaves of the Sultan sported their gayest apparel, we were simply habited as Arabs. Mukni was not well pleased at this omission on our part; for as we had the honour of riding on each side of him, and were considered as great men, he wished us to have been as fine and solemn as himself. On coming in sight of the town, the soldiers commenced firing and racing in front of the Sultan, and the musicians struck up such a noise as nearly stunned us. We were shortly joined by another party, who even outdid the first in sound. A number of dancing women then appeared, who, in most fantastic dresses, threw themselves into extraordinary attitudes, crying in their usual shrill manner, and calling down blessings on the Sultan and his family. The armed people who came from the town amounted to about six or seven hundred, not including lookers-on, of at least the same number. The Sultan’s horses, in golden trappings, and led by well dressed slaves, advanced in front, under three silk Tripolitan flags, striped red and yellow horizontally. A curious interruption took place during our progress, in consequence of a man’s horse requiring to stale, when the whole procession, following the example of the Sultan, stopped for him; and we again proceeded with much solemnity. Only two other stoppages took place during the day; once when a band of slaves came and prostrated themselves before Mukni, and at another time when his majesty halted to regale himself with a fresh quid of tobacco. Amongst many laughable incidents which occurred, an unfortunate black drummer was tilted with his drum over the head of the donkey he rode, which ludicrous disaster occasioned much mirth, and even caused Mukni’s state frown to relax. The town’s people, on joining us, advanced in a straight line, until within about a hundred yards, when, firing their muskets, and setting up a loud yell, they rushed forward, and surrounded the Sultan, to kiss his hands. After these ceremonies, they divided themselves into small parties, and expended a great deal of powder in sham fights.
| Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon. | On Stone by D. Dighton. |
A sand wind on the Desert.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
We arrived at 10 in the town of Sockna, سكنا, and were directed to the house which had been prepared for us. In the evening our camels also arrived; and now we arrayed ourselves in our most costly dresses, and went to pay our respects to the Sultan. We found him surrounded by some hundred Arabs, all talking at once, and disputing about money matters, while Mukni appeared to listen to them with extraordinary patience. We now had become better acquainted with Arabic, and I profited much by teaching the Sultan’s little son Yussuf to speak English.
Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel; bounded to the south by the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains of Wadan about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the west; and those I have already mentioned on passing through to the north. The town is walled, and may contain 2000 persons; more than half the people we saw this day were from Hoon and Wadan. There are small projections from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It has seven gates, only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The streets are very narrow, and the houses are built of mud and small stones mixed, many of them having a story above the ground floor. A small court is open in the centre; and the windows, or more properly the doors, which open from this area, give the only light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number, not yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in a belt of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town, and are of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of Africa. Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high price at Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of shrubs, or any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to graze about five miles off; while in the town all animals are fed on dates. Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens, which are about three miles from the town, barley, maize, and gussob, قصب, are cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The quantity of flies here is immense, and all the people carry little flappers, made of bunches of wild bulls’ hair, tied to a short stick, in order to keep these pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited in store-houses in the town, may account, in some degree, for the multitude of these insects; which, in a few minutes, fill every dish or bowl containing any liquid. The duties paid by this place amount to 2000 dollars annually, exclusive of a tax of one dollar on each two hundred date trees. All the people attached to the Sultan, and ourselves also, received food twice a day from the Sheikh, who collected it from the inhabitants; our horses likewise got a daily portion of dates.
The costume here is the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals: a few, whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The neat appearance of the men, in general, is very striking, compared with that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered exceedingly handsome; indeed, one or two whom I saw at Fatma’s were really so, and as fair as Europeans; but they are noted for their profligacy and love of intrigue.