A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger

by G. F. Lyon

West.
In Fezzan	⎰ ⎱	Morzouk to Tessowa	1	day.	Town and old castle.
		Tessowa to Oubāri	2		Town.
		Oubāri to Haghki	2		Resting place.
		Haghki to Kaïbo	4		do.
		Kaïbo to Bengheh	6		do.
		Bengheh to Doukaraat	2		do.
		Doukaraat to Tadera	5		do.
		Tadera to Amaghi	7		do.
		Amaghi to Temadraati	3		do.
		Temadraati to Houhaned	1½		do.
		Houhaned to Oonabraghri	4		do.
		Oonabraghri to Ain el Sala	2		Town in Tuat.

Between Tadera and Amaghi is a desert, which is travelled eight days without water. All the road is sand without any other vegetation than a few occasional shrubs, from Morzouk to Ain el Sala, which is the northern town in Tuat, and the first reached by all the Kafflés from the coast of Morocco. Tafilet is ten days north-west of it. Tombuctoo, or Tembuctoo, is fifty days from Ain el Sala, and the road is entirely over a desert. The first place from Ain el Sala is Akably, a very large town, which is two days. From thence to Mabrook is thirty-five days: this place is so called from its being the custom for those who have passed the Desert to rest and refresh there, each congratulating the other on having safely arrived over their perilous road, by the usual salutation of “Mabrook,” which signifies joy or happiness. Hence to Tembuctoo is fifteen days. Ghadams, belonging to the Bashaw of Tripoli, is twenty days north-north-west of Ain el Sala.

Tembuctoo is about 90 days’ journey from Morzouk, and the road thence is through Tuat. From the account given by merchants, it appears that it is not so large a town as has been imagined; and indeed some agree in saying, that it is not more extensive than Morzouk. It is walled; the houses are very low, and with the exception of one or two small streets, are built irregularly. Huts of mats seem to be in greater numbers than the houses.

The merchants to whom I suggested the idea, generally agreed with me, that the immense population which is said to exist there, may be thus accounted for. Many of the kafflés from Morocco, Ghadams, Tripoli, and the Negro states along the banks of the Nil, are obliged to remain there during the rainy season, or until their goods are sold. During their stay, they find it necessary to build huts or houses, to shelter themselves and their merchandise. These buildings are got up in a few days; and thus, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand inhabitants may, in the course of a month, be added to the population, which occasions Tembuctoo to be thought an immense town by those who are only there at the same time as other strangers; but when the causes which detain the travellers cease, the place appears (what in reality it is said to be) insignificant. Thus it is that the accounts of it differ so much.

Kabra, which is its port, is situated south of it about 12 miles, and a person on foot may easily walk to and return from it in a day. It is more properly a collection of store-houses than a town; the few people residing there being employed to take care of the cargoes of vessels. Large boats from Jenne come and unload at this place. The river, called Goulbi or Nil (the former name is Soudan, merely a generic term for all waters, and by no means applicable to the Niger alone), is here very broad, and flows slowly past from the westward. Many people agree in saying, that in the dry season, a camel may pass over it without swimming; but after the rains, it becomes very deep, rapid, and dangerous.

Tembuctoo is governed by a King or Sultan, who has but little power. The people are all blacks, and dress like the natives of many parts of Soudan; the better class in shirts and trowsers, while the poorer order are nearly naked. Gold, cotton clothes, leather, and arms, are the principal manufactures of Tembuctoo and the surrounding villages. Jenne is said to be the place from which gold comes, and is thence called Bledd el Tibbr بلد التبر, or the country of gold.

I could obtain no account of Mr. Park, but every one agreed that it would be quite impossible (the buildings being so small and ill constructed) for him or any other white man to be confined in the town unknown to the traders, who enter every house, not excepting that of the Sultan himself. This, I think, entirely confutes the idea that Mr. Park has been, or is still confined by the Sultan, on account of his skill in surgery; and there is equal reason to doubt his being in existence, which some have supposed. Many Jews trade from Morocco, which, as they differ from the Mohammedans in their customs, has given rise to the report that there are Christians in the country; they are said to be circumcised, eat no pork, kill their animals in a peculiar way, and neither acknowledge Christ nor Mohammed. A nation of these people is said to exist south of Tembuctoo, the language of which place is peculiar to itself,—though Arabic is a little spoken; the people are regarded as good Moslems.

Language of Tembuctoo.
Man	Ahinda.
Woman	Afintoo.
Boy	Aberry.
Girl	Aterry.
Hand	Akhood.
Head	Agodi.
Iron	Azeli.
Eye	Aiti.
Ass	Ehaid.
Camel	Elgimmo.
Goat	Egghsi.
Sheep	Taili.
Gold	Agreef dodi.
Pillow	Kote.
Corn	Attow.
Tree	Esheri.
Wood	Esheri.
Water	Ami.
Fire	Ofi.
God	Allah.
House	Bactoo.
Town	Agherri.
Heaven	Engi.
Father	Abbi.
Mother	Emmi.
Brother	Kati.
Sister	Aghotoo.
Grandfather	Ajeddi.
Friend	Sehhi.
I understand	Foni.
I do not	Mofedi.
Sun	Ofitti.
Moon	Hitti.
Meat	Taasoo.
Flesh	Hamo.
Horse	Aïs.
Cow	Abari.
Sweet	Zaidi.
Milk	Alebbi.
Mat	Boshti.
Carpet	Fershit.
Foot	Edthi.
Leg	Edthair.
Beard	Heti.
Nose	Hoshti.
River	Bori.
Eat	Tay.
Drink	Ushti.
Walk	Kaedodi.
Sleep	Auti.
Come	Ka.
Go	Dodi.
Bad	Ferri.
Large	Koti.
Small	Katch.
Heavy	Toozi.
Mouth	Fetti.
Light	Afi.
Arm	Eghrai.
Belly	Teddis.
Back	Kerri.
Neck	Terri.
Nipples	Foffi
Fingers	Beddi.
I	Anikikki.
You	Ani looloo.
He	Hooti.

Here the intelligence of my informant ceased.

The King of Tembuctoo is an old man, named Kaoo, which, I believe, means governor or master; his wife is an old woman, and he has many concubines. The Sultanship is hereditary.—Tembuctoo is distant from Downa, a large town or district on the banks of the Nil, one day and a half east. Arowan is north of the city seven days, and is a place of consequence. Ezawen is east twenty days, and is also a large town. Taudenny, from whence the large kafflés, who bring rock salt, come annually, is twenty-four days north of Tembuctoo. Telemsen, which is twelve days north of the latter, or indeed half-way to Taudenny, is remarkable for a desert, having no water for ten days; thence called Asherïa. Mabrook is three days north of this place, ten days south of Taudenny, seven days east of Arowan, and eighteen days south of Awlef in Tuat.