Ghadams. I have frequently had occasion to speak of this place, which is situated on the Desert, fifteen days south-west of Tripoli. It is there that merchants going to Tembuctoo or Tuat assemble before starting for their long journey. This place was once independent, but a few years since was taken by the son of the Bashaw of Tripoli, and has ever since remained tributary. The natives are constantly trading to Tembuctoo, and there are few of them who do not speak the language of that country, and of the Tuarick also. It is a singular fact, that two tribes live in Ghadams without having any communication with each other. From a person who had often traded there I obtained the following account, and he drew on the sand the small plan here shown.
A large circular wall is divided in the middle by another broad one, which separates the two towns. It has a gate through the centre, which is shut during any disturbance. The inhabitants of both towns were always at war with each other, and have even now occasionally very dangerous quarrels. Outside the towns are the gardens and date groves. The streets are all covered in, and are so dark in consequence, that at sunset a person is unable to find his way without a lamp. The houses are good, formed of mud, and of one story. The natives are Arabs. Those who reside in the two towns seldom see, and are as perfect strangers to each other, as if living many miles apart. No intermarriages or civilities exist between them, and a chance visitor from one town seldom escapes insult from the people of the other. In Benewazeed is a spring sufficiently large to supply both these places, as well as their gardens. There are five channels from it, by which the water is distributed in equal shares, at a certain allowance, in proportion to the houses or gardens to be watered. When the allowance for one place is poured into its proper channel, it is then dammed up, and another is supplied. There are people regularly appointed from each town to attend the distribution. The water is said to be rather warm and quite fresh, and runs in a channel communicating with the Mosque, through which it passes. There are many small rooms, into which those who wish to bathe in performing their ablutions may retire. The mouadden, or minaret of this Mosque is very high, and may be seen at the distance of a day’s journey. Each town has a Sheikh, and the two are under the command of a Kaid appointed by the Bashaw. There are no manufactories, but it is well supplied by the constant concourse of traders who pass through it. Many ostriches are caught in the neighbouring desert, and the feathers form an extensive article of commerce with Tripoli. In the southern half of the walls is a tribe of Arabs living by themselves, called Oulad Belail. From Ghadams to Iddri, in the Wadey Shirghi of Fezzan, is eight days; and to Ghraat, twenty days short journeys, or fifteen summer days.
September.—All the people were this month busily employed in getting in their soft dates, which were in great plenty, and became their chief support. There are two harvests of this fruit; one while the dates are soft, the other the latter end of October and beginning of November, when they are dried and candied.
Reports were brought from Tripoli that it was the intention of the Bashaw to send out another Sultan to supersede Mukni, and that a larger tribute was expected than had ever been paid. These reports, corroborated by one or two private letters, very much alarmed the Sultan, and caused him to fall sick and take to his bed. He began, for the first time in his life, to pray at the regular hours ordered by the law; he ceased to swear, talked much of Paradise, and of the superiority of the other world to this. Mr. Ritchie was at this time very weak, and began again to be indisposed, but he constantly visited Mukni, and at last succeeded in restoring him to health; thus returning by kindness the ill treatment we had received from him. We both went frequently to the Castle, and learnt by degrees that some strong expressions of Mukni’s had come to the ears of the Bashaw, whose emissaries he expected would be sent to strangle him, and take all his wealth. Never was a haughty tyrant so completely humbled by his fears as this man: he sat constantly in a dark room, would receive only one or two visitors, and was nursed by negresses day and night; always speaking in a low voice, and, in his terror, betraying all his secrets.
Affairs were in this state when he determined on sending his chief man, Aboo bekr boo Khalloum, to Tripoli, that he might endeavour to mediate for him with the Bashaw. Presents of negresses and perfumes were to be sent as a propitiation. Ten fine girls of the Sultan’s household were intended for the Bashaw, with about one hundred dollars’ worth of civet, and three negresses for the bey, the heir apparent; two for his brothers, and one for each of the principal people about the Bashaw. I took this opportunity of sending my bill to the Consul, and Aboo bekr was to bring me back the money, Mr. Ritchie having written to state our distressed situation. Soon after the man’s departure we received a present of a sheep, and two loaves of Egyptian sugar, from Mukni, who now began to feel a little more at ease; but at the same time made secret preparations for flight (of which we, however, were informed), by getting several of his horses shod at night, and causing all his women to grind corn and to make provision for a long and sudden journey. We were well aware, that should he be under the necessity of flying, he would not go empty handed; and it was pretty generally supposed that he would first revenge himself on the Mamlukes, whom he suspected of informing the Bashaw of his evil doings, and then take possession of our effects, which by his artful schemes had remained so long on our hands unpurchased. Our friends Yussuf and the old Hadje stole to our house several nights to give us an account of what was going forward, and, in consequence, we held consultations for our general safety. It was some satisfaction to know that all the Mamlukes, to the number of about ten, would have flocked to our house in the event of any disturbance; and our arms and ammunition being very superior to those of the Sultan, we should have stood a good siege had we been attacked.
Mukni’s treacherous intentions were, in the meantime, too apparent to allow of our feeling quite at ease, though he frequently came to visit us, and still professed the same friendship for us as before. One of our amusements on these occasions was to fire pistols at a mark at the end of the room. He was very fond of this kind of practice, and appeared to understand our arms; but we happily always succeeded in firing much better than himself or his followers; a circumstance of which, at this time, we were glad to have an opportunity of convincing him. I had some very small pistols, which he much admired, and he had given me frequent hints of his desire to purchase them, even many months prior to this period, but I did not choose to understand him. Mr. Ritchie agreed in the propriety of keeping our arms loaded and ready, and we frequently went into our yard to practise at a mark.
Mukni was at this time even more courteous and civil than usual; indeed so much so, that he overshot his mark, and confirmed us in our determination to be prepared for him. One of his Eunuchs who came to ask for medicine for a woman of the castle who wanted to bear children, hinted to us, that Mukni was preparing for a sudden escape, and that much mischief was apprehended before he turned his back on Morzouk. We could not be indifferent to this caution, and therefore lay all night with our pistols under our heads, and our other arms in readiness, conceiving we might soon be called upon to make use of them.
In this state we continued for some days, Mr. Ritchie lying on one side of the large room, I on the other, and Belford in a small room adjoining.—One night, at about 12 o’clock, I was awakened by Mr. Ritchie’s crying out in Arabic, “Who are you?” “Lyon, there is a man on the house top.” We all instantly started up; and I, being the most active of our emaciated party, was pushed up to the roof, while Mr. Ritchie and Belford ran to our yard, to cut off the retreat of the intruder. I saw no one, however, and though I ran along the tops of some neighbouring houses, could make no discovery. Our old Mamluke was sleeping on the top of his house, and rose instantly with his gun in his hand, to assist in the search. Meanwhile we all shouted to our neighbours, begging their assistance to look for any strangers who might endeavour to get on their terraces. In an instant all our friends were up, and on the look out; but, after the strictest examination, no person could be found.
Mr. Ritchie said, that as he was lying in bed, awake, he heard a slight noise overhead, when, in looking up, he saw a man stooping over our sky-light, or opening in the roof, as if for the purpose of examining into the room. After ascertaining where Mr. Ritchie slept, he knelt down, hanging his head as far over as he could, to observe where I lay. Mr. Ritchie moved very gently, so as to reach his pistol, when the intruder disappeared, and he instantly called out to me. He stated, that he saw as low down as the man’s waist, that his body appeared naked, and that he had a white cap on his head.