This being agreed to, we gave directions for a breakfast, that would enable us to undergo the subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness, and then struck into the road for Plas Newydd. This memorable little dwelling is pleasantly situated upon a rising knoll, and commands a delightful prospect of mountain scenery.
The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic appearance to the building. At the back of the house is a neat grass plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning. It is surrounded with a fence of evergreens. From thence, the gardener conducted us under an archway, to a very pleasant and winding path, which leads to a well-stocked fruit garden. We then descended by a shady walk, arched over with tall trees, to the primrose vale, through which a refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where the sun but rarely gilds it with its beams. It is a delightful cool retreat, and well calculated to awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in any heart where it had ever deigned to dwell. We passed over a rustic bridge which led us to the verandah, from which we had a fine view of the valley, and the Pengwern and Berwyn Mountains; and then proceeding a little farther up the glen, we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque font, brought hither from the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late proprietors of this spot. It is enclosed in a small arched niche, and supplied with the purest water from a murmuring rill, which falls in a thin stream into the bowl, a draught from which is an exquisite treat—for water drinkers.
The flower garden is laid out with great taste, and the little circular dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, gives a most pleasing and picturesque effect. Altogether it is a place to which any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for refuge, and find repose.
Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty and rank, who loved each other with so true an affection that they could never bear the afflicting idea of a separation which the marriage of either might occasion. They, therefore, resolved upon lives of celibacy, refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to the persuasions of their friends, they retired to the beautiful Vale of Llangollen to enjoy the happiness of each other’s company, that as their friendship began in infancy it might be perpetuated through life.
These celebrated ladies were the pride of Llangollen for more than half a century, and by their numerous charities and general kindness of disposition, had endeared themselves to the hearts of the whole neighbourhood. It is worthy of remark that during the long period of their residence in Wales, they never, for a single night slept from home. They occasionally visited the theatres at Wrexham and Oswestry, on charitable occasions, or when a “star” was engaged; but their invariable custom was to return home after the performances, whatever might be the state of the weather.
In the lively Memoirs of the late Mr. Charles Matthews, the celebrated comedian, is the following description of “the Ladies of Llangollen,” but it must be remembered that at that time
“Age, with stealing, stealing steps,
Had clawed them in his clutch.”“Oswestry, Sept. 4, 1820.
“The dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby were in the boxes here on Friday. They came twelve miles from Llangollen, and returned, as they never sleep from home. Oh! such curiosities! I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on for the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. Though I had never seen them, I instantly knew them. As they are seated, there is not one point to distinguish them from men; the dressing and powdering of the hair; their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part of their habits, which they always wear even at a dinner-party, made precisely like men’s coats, and regular black beaver hats. They exactly looked like two respectable superannuated clergymen.”
In returning through the churchyard we passed the monument to the memory of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mary Carroll.
The church is of considerable antiquity, but has very little left of architectural beauty; some fine carvings on the roof and in the interior still attest its former consequence. It is noteworthy, however, inasmuch as the remains of the saint to whom it is dedicated are buried under its sacred roof. Pennant gives his name in full, which is Saint Collen ab Gwynnawg, ab Clydawg, ab Cowrda, ab Caradog Vreicvhras, ab Llyr Merim, ab Einion Yrth, ab Cunedda Wledig, by Ethni Wyddeles, daughter to Matholwch, lord of Cwl, in the kingdom of Ireland.