CHAPTER III.
Bala.—The Lake.—A Jolter.—Glan y Llyn.—Vale of Drws y Nant.—Cader Idris.—Dolgelley.—The Town Hall.—Parliament House.—St. Mary’s Church.—Inns.—Angling Stations.—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll y Cain.—Nannau Park.—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and Owen Sele.—Road to Barmouth.—Arrival.—Inns.—A Walk on the Sands.
“I lay on the rock where the storms have their dwelling,
The birth-place of phantoms, the home of the cloud,
Around it for ever deep music is swelling—
The voice of the mountain wind, solemn and loud.”Mrs. Hemans.
On the following morning I found myself unable to walk, from the effect produced by a sprained ancle, and I had the delightful prospect of being confined to the room of an inn in a country town, without a being to converse with, or a book to enliven me; but my kind landlord, a fine, portly, rosy-cheeked, round-headed, honest-hearted Boniface, as ever drew spigot, kindly offered me a pony, to take me to the lake, which, he said, contained plenty of perch. This offer I thankfully accepted, and, by the aid of mine host and his ostler, was soon seated upon the back of a quiet not-to-be-put-out-of-his-way animal, as any clerical gentleman could desire to ride upon, and
“With slow and solemn pace,”
proceeded to catch fish, and view the scenery around
LLYN TEGID, OR BALA LAKE.
Seated upon a rock that projects into the lake (under the shadow of which is the boat-house of Mr. Price, of Rhiwlas,) I commenced my solitary pastime; but my eyes continually wandered from the float to the surrounding scenery, which is of a pleasing rather than an imposing nature. The lake was slightly ruffled by a refreshing breeze, which fortunately sprang up, and prevented me from dissolving in the heat of the sun. It is about four miles in length, and in some parts it is forty yards in depth. The shores are sloping, the soil gravelly, and delightfully variegated with plantations of trees and shrubs. Towards the head of the lake the mountains are upon a very grand scale, and rival Snowdon in their altitude; Arran Vowddwy is the loftiest of these, near the summit of which, upon its eastern side, beneath a huge crag, is situated a lake, which affords excellent sport to the angler, although the fish are not of the finest quality.
Arrenig Vawr, (or great,) which is nearly as lofty as Arran Vowddwy, and rises upon the N.W. side of the Llyn, has also a lake, containing trout of a large size, which are noted for rejecting the artificial fly; but, about half way up the Arrenig Vâch, (or little,) is a lake, which, when a light breeze sweeps along its surface, will amply reward the angler for his trouble in reaching it. A morning and an evening, at each of these places, enable me to state thus much, for the benefit of the disciples of Izaac Walton.