For transparent colored bottles, instead of sponge, the perfumers use what they call insoluble crystal salts (sulphate of potass). The bottles being filled with crystals, are covered either with the liquid ammonia, scented as above, or with alcoholic ammonia. The necks of the bottles are filled with a piece of white cotton; otherwise, when inverted, from the non-absorbent quality of the crystals, the ammonia runs out, and causes complaints to be made. The crystals are prettier in colored bottles than the sponge; but in plain bottles the sponge appears quite as handsome, and, as before observed, it holds the ammonia better than any other material. Perfumers sell also what is called White Smelling Salts, and Preston Salts. The White Smelling Salt is the sesqui-carbonate of ammonia in powder, with which is mixed any perfuming otto that is thought fit,—lavender otto giving, as a general rule, the most satisfaction.
Preston Salts, which is the cheapest of all the ammoniacal compounds, is composed of some easily decomposable salt of ammonia and lime, such as equal parts of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-carbonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked lime. When the bottles are filled with this compound, rammed in very hard, a drop or two of some cheap otto is poured on the top prior to corking. For this purpose otto of French lavender, or otto of bergamot, answers very well. We need scarcely mention that the corks are dipped into melted sealing-wax, or brushed over with liquid wax, that is, red or black wax dissolved in alcohol, to which a small portion of ether is added. The only other compound of ammonia that is sold in the perfumery trade is Eau de Luce, though properly it belongs to the druggist. When correctly made—which is very rarely the case—it retains the remarkable odor of oil of amber, which renders it characteristic.
Eau de Luce.
| Tincture of benzoin: or, | } | |
| " balsam of Peru, | } | 1 oz. |
| Otto of lavender, | 10 drops. | |
| Oil of amber, | 5 " | |
| Liquor ammonia, | 2 oz. |
If requisite, strain through cotton wool, but it must not be filtered, as it should have the appearance of a milk-white emulsion.
Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery.—The pungency of the odor of vinegar naturally brought it into the earliest use in the art of perfumery.
The acetic acid, evolved by distilling acetate of copper (verdigris), is the true "aromatic" vinegar of the old alchemists.
The modern aromatic vinegar is the concentrated acetic acid aromatized with various ottos, camphor, &c., thus—
Aromatic Vinegar.
| Concentrated acetic acid, | 8 oz. |
| Otto of English lavender, | 2 drachms. |
| " " rosemary, | 1 drachm. |
| " cloves, | 1 " |
| " camphor, | 1 oz. |