BRAVOES.
Martin Schongauer.
Cloth and woollen boots and shoes, as were worn in the Middle Ages, have been recommended for modern wear as being more healthy, and as allowing the natural perspiration of the foot to exhale, their sponsors affirming that "cloth and wool are perfectly suitable and safe for wet weather, as the wetting of the wool does not chill the feet, the heat of which promptly evaporates the moisture from the covering, which soon dries." It must, however, be admitted that with a cloth covering, the dirt and mud of a London winter would be a trial, and here, doubtless, we have a reason for the cobblestones of mediæval towns. Cobble-stones are clean, but must at once be ruled out of the question for London. Cobble-stones would indeed add a fresh horror to London life. But is it too much to expect the richest city in the world, with its thousands of unemployed, to keep its streets clean? Is there any reason why large cities should not be kept clean as well as small cities?
"Boots and shoes should be roomy, to prevent the toes from being squeezed together, and should be so made that the great toe is not pressed against its neighbours, but is encouraged to lie in a straight line drawn from the heel to the root of the great toe. The heel of the boot should be low and broad."[31]
The Greek ideal of the foot is the true one. The Greeks rightly regarded the foot as an undeveloped hand, and they endeavoured in their sculpture to impart that hand-like character to their feet. One has only to notice the flexible toes of new-born and young babies, in order to perceive the reasonableness of this position. The Greeks in their sculpture made a distinct division between the great toe and the rest of the toes, as between the thumb and the fingers of the hand—the three toes well forward in a bunch; the first the longest, the next a little shorter, and the third shorter still; the little toe by itself, raised up. Now compare with this any natural foot habituated to shoes or boots. The bunch of three toes is pressed back, and also sideways against the great toe, thus losing the division between them and the great toe, and destroying the true contour of the foot. The pads of all the toes are pressed sideways instead of being immediately under the nails, and the foot has entirely lost its original character, and has become grotesquely malformed by corns, bunions, and similar growths. The most beautiful natural foot, the only beautiful foot which we ever remember having seen, was a cast in Sir Edgar Boehm's studio of the foot of a black woman who had never worn shoes.
Of late there has been a disposition to return to the sandal as a covering or rather protection for children's feet (one fears that it will be long before grown-ups adopt the sandal, except perhaps at the seaside or in the country). The change is a healthy one from every point of view. Upon æsthetic grounds it is especially welcome. One walks along the street during the summer months, the mind perhaps preoccupied, and the eye suddenly lights upon the rosy feet of one of these little ones as they trip along the street. One involuntarily exclaims, "What a charming design! What a beautiful piece of ornament!" Of a truth, in place of the uninteresting product of the shoemaker, which we had become so inured and accustomed to, one is suddenly introduced to that masterpiece of the Great Designer, the human foot, and the foot, too, in its natural state, before it has become crippled and distorted by long confinement in a leather prison.
[INDEX]
- Addison, scantiness of dress, [141]
- Angelico, Fra, painting by, at Florence, [101]
- Anglo-Saxon super-tunic, [76];
- embroidery, [76];
- Chronicle, treasures of King Malcolm of Scotland, [100]
- Barbers, introduction of in Rome, [239];
- charter granted by Henry VIII., [247]
- Barber-Surgeons, [247-249]
- Beard, formality of Assyrian and Greek, [237];
- dyeing and powdering, [238];
- ceremonies and customs relating to, [238];
- Peter Lombard's dislike of, [245];
- edict by Henry I. for suppression of, [245];
- various shapes of, [246];
- vow of Henry VIII. relating to, [246]
- Beaumont and Fletcher, quotation from, [140]
- Bloet, Robert, Bishop of Lincoln, mantle presented by to Henry I., [90]
- Boadicea, tunic of, [68]
- Bodice, rigidity of, [144]
- Boots, shoes, and other foot coverings, [281-301]
- —— short, [288];
- top, [288], [297], [298];
- Wellington, [298]
- Buckles, [296]
- Buskins, [284-286]
- Byzantine women, dress of, [72]
- Calash, introduction of, [230]
- Cap, flat, of Tudor period, [218-220];
- fool's, [209]
- Carlyle, T., [18], [26], [110]
- Charlemagne, dress of, [68];
- letter to King John of Gascogny, [89];
- mantle of, [90]
- Charles I., costume of, [126]
- Chaucer, quotations from, [52], [46], [78], [82], [98], [118], [242], [275]
- Chopine, [292]
- Chlamys, [85]
- Cloak, Spanish, [102];
- Puritan, [102]
- Clothes, index as to character, [22];
- climatic influence on, [22];
- uses of, [20];
- their symbolism, [26]
- Coif-caps, [258]
- Collar, Gurth's, [181]
- Collars and cuffs, [181-201]
- Cotton MS. caricature of winged devil, [42]
- "Couleur Isabella," [188]
- Coverley, Sir Roger de, remarks on hooped petticoat, [164]
- Cravat, origin of, [182];
- general use of, [195];
- art of tying the, [195-201]
- Crestine or net-caul, [211]
- Crinoletta, [160];
- "disfigurans," [177];
- echo of earlier prototype, [178]
- Crinoline, rise and fall of, [159-178];
- invention of, [162]
- Crispin, St., [281]
- Cross gartering, [114], [286]
- Cut-purse, [78]
- Dickens, quotation from "Pickwick," [280]
- Doublet and hose, [111-132]
- Dowglas, monk of Glastonbury, extravagances of dress of reign of Edward III., [37]
- Dress:
- should be one of the decorative arts, [53];
- conditions of beautiful, [106];
- floral patternings of, [146];
- modes of, 1773, [148];
- fashionable, 1782, [149]
- Elizabeth, Queen, short cloak, [101]
- Embroidery, a conspicuous element in Anglo-Saxon dress, [76]
- Empire gown, [152]
- Fabrics:
- cloth of gold, [43];
- silk, [44];
- ciclatoun, cendal, taffetas, sarcenet, [46];
- patternings of, [48];
- satin, [46];
- velvet, [46];
- Sicilian brocades, [49-51]
- Farthingale, [162];
- great wheel, [164]
- Fashion, genuine woman of, [153]
- French Revolution, influence on dress, [150];
- disappearance of three-cornered hat, [227]
- Froissart, Harleian Library, caricature of pig walking upon stilts, [42]
- Garter, mantle of, [52], [94];
- vestments of, [94];
- jewel of, [95];
- embroiderings of, [94];
- as at present worn, [96]
- General survey, [19-57]
- Girdle, various kinds of, [77];
- of Charlemagne, [77];
- imperial girdle of Holy Roman Empire, [77];
- of Henry VI., [77];
- in brasses, [78]
- Gosson, Stephen, "Schoole of Abuse," [36]
- Gozzoli, Benozzo, frescoes at Pisa, [101]
- Greeks, costumes of modern, [78]
- Gresham, Sir Thomas, gift of silk stockings to Edward VI., [120]
- Hair, moustachios, and beard, [237-277]
- —— length of, privilege of Kings and Princes of the Franks, [240];
- condemnation of by the priesthood, [240]
- Harold, King, banner under which he fought at Hastings, [52]
- Hat, chimney-pot, [25], [57], [205], [220], [222-224];
- development of, [222-224];
- centenary of modern, [222];
- Greek broad-brimmed, [210];
- cocked, [130];
- Kevenhuller, [132], [227];
- slouch, Stuart period, [226];
- panama, [232];
- bowler, [232]
- Hats, caps, and bonnets, [205-233]
- Headcoverings not a necessity, [205]
- Head-dresses, extravagances of, [260-271];
- horned, [36], [41], [213-215];
- heart-shaped, [215];
- steeple, [215]
- Hennin, [216]
- Hood, Roman hooded cloak, [208];
- variations of, [209]
- Hooped petticoat, [159-175];
- inconveniences of, [170];
- disappearance of, [170]
- Hose, tight-fitting, [114];
- parti-coloured, [115];
- Gallic, [120];
- silk, [120];
- Venetian, [120]
- Illuminated MSS., colouring of, [73]
- Jerkin, [117]
- Jewels, worn in hats, [224]
- Jonson, Ben, quotations from "Silent Woman," [38], [236], [268];
- "Every Man out of his Humour," [122]
- Kirtle or petticoat, the, [135-156]
- Kirtle "Romaunt of the Rose," [73-136];
- a development tunic, [135]
- La Tour Landry, Knight of, St. Bernard's admonition of his sister, [36];
- extravagance in dress, [41];
- horned head-dresses, [214];
- painted faces, [276]
- Lorenzo, Fiorenzo di, paintings by, [99], [100], [113]
- Love locks, [250]
- Lydgate, monk of Bury, satires, [41]
- Lyly's "Euphues," 1580, fable of wind and sun, [22]
- Macaronies, [260]
- Malay Peninsula, clothing of aborigines, [20]
- Mantle, the, [83-106];
- of Elijah, [83];
- St. Martin, [84];
- Raleigh, [84];
- Archdruid's, [88];
- coronation mantle of Holy Roman Empire, [88];
- Frankish, [89];
- colour of Charlemagne's, [90];
- Edward the Confessor's, [90];
- Norman period, [90];
- Queen Matilda's, [91];
- of the Order of the Garter, [94]
- Mary, Queen, description of portrait of, [138]
- Merry Monarch, beauties of the Court of, [141]
- Merveilleuses, [150]
- Moustachios, Charles I., third Empire, a reigning monarch, [272]
- Muffs, [104]
- Nazarite law, [240-244]
- Ondina or waved Jupons, advertisement in Illustrated London News, 1863, [175]
- Otaheite, festal dress, [166]
- Painted faces, [250-252]
- Paris, Matthew, description of marriage of Alexander III. of Scotland, [96]
- Pattens, [290-292]
- Pegtops, [54];
- Dundreary's, [275]
- Peplum of the Greeks, [85], [88]
- Pepys, references to dress, [102-104], [142-144], [255]
- Periwig, first appearance of in history, [255];
- proportions of, during the reign of Charles II., [255]
- Petticoat breeches, [128-130]
- —— inflation, era of, [138]
- Picadil, [189-192]
- Piccadilly, [190];
- fringe, [275]
- Piers Plowman, description of Meed (Bribery), [212]
- Pilche, [98-100]
- Pole, Edmund de la, letter to, [46]
- Pot-hat, examples of in past art, [25]
- Puffing, [117]
- Punch, Mr., fragments of a love-song, [74];
- satire of crinoline, [172-176];
- crinoletta, [176];
- short side-whiskers, [276];
- warning to ladies riding in crinolines, [170]
- "Roman de la Rose," satire on dress, [38];
- dress of Mirth, [53];
- horned head-dresses, [213]
- Roxburghe ballads, [40], [252], [255], [283]
- Ruff, invention of, [183];
- extravagances of, [187];
- various kinds of, [192];
- disappearance of, [194]
- Ruffle, [183-184]
- St. Bernard, admonition of his sister, [36]
- Salisbury, Lord, remarks on modern costume, [56]
- Sandal, Greek, [283];
- of Italian peasantry, [286];
- modern, [301]
- Shoe roses, [296]
- Shoes, early British, [286];
- Anglo-Saxon, [288];
- pointed toed, [289-291];
- broad toed, [294-296]
- Slashings, [117-118]
- Sleeves, serrated, [72];
- development of, [112-113];
- tight, [112];
- cut work of, [112];
- "pokys," [112]
- "Spencer" jacket, [137]
- Starching, [184]
- Stow, reference to ruffs, [187]
- Strutt, [73]
- Stubbes, "Anatomy of Abuses," feminine habit of aping masculine dress, [42];
- peascod bellied doublets, [124];
- ruffs, [180], [186], [188];
- praise of barbers, [250];
- moustachios, [272]
- Sumptuary laws, principal Acts, [28-36], [290]
- Surcoat, Anglo-Saxon period, [76];
- thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, [74]
- Tailor and Cutter, hints of impending changes in men's attire, [56]
- Tailors, Latin song upon the, [92]
- "Tale of Beryn," the, quotation from, [89]
- Toga, plan of, [86];
- dimensions of, [88]
- Trouser stretcher, [56]
- Trousers, their antiquity, [25];
- the apparent eternity of, [54];
- development of, [54];
- inconveniences of, [56];
- Frankish, [69];
- Norman, [114]
- Trunk hose, bombasting of, [118], [122];
- of period of James I., [126]
- Tudor period, magnificence of dress of, [140]
- Tunic, the, [61-80];
- primitive form of, [61];
- Egyptian, [63];
- Greek, [64];
- child's tunic, Egyptian, [64];
- plan of, [66];
- super-tunic, [66];
- Lacedemonian girls', [67];
- Charlemagne's, [69];
- military, [77]
- Turban, [209]
- Uses of clothing, the, [20-24]
- Veddas of Ceylon, [20]
- Weaving, silk, in France and England, [52]
- Whisk, [188-189]
- Whiskers, Dundreary and mutton chop, [274];
- short side, [276]
- Wigs, Egyptian, [254];
- first appearance in England, [255];
- cost of when first worn, [256];
- different shapes of, [256];
- Lord Ellenborough's, [258]
- William III., long-skirted coats, [104]
- Wimple, [183], [211]