[CONTENTS]

PAGE
[PREFACE][5]
[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS][9]
[BIBLIOGRAPHY][15]
CHAT
[I.]A GENERAL SURVEY[17]
[II.]THE TUNIC[59]
[III.]THE MANTLE[81]
[IV.]THE DOUBLET AND HOSE[109]
[V.]THE KIRTLE OR PETTICOAT[133]
[VI.]THE RISE AND FALL OF THE CRINOLINE[157]
[VII.]COLLARS AND CUFFS[179]
[VIII.]HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS[203]
[IX.]THE DRESSING OF THE HAIR, MOUSTACHIOS, AND BEARD[235]
[X.]BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET[279]
[INDEX][302]


[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS]

Portrait of Miss Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth, by J. S. Sargent, R.A.[Frontispiece]
Horned Head-dress: Beatrice, Countess of Arundel, 1439[Title-page]
PAGE
Duke of Juliers and Cleves (Aldegrever)[6]
Chat I.—A General Survey.
Heading[19]
The Comte d'Artois and Mademoiselle Clothilde[21]
Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham[23]
Ludovicus Rex, by Thackeray[27]
Travelling in a Horse-litter (from a Fourteenth Century MS.)[31]
William III.[35]
Queen Mary[39]
Caricature: Pig Walking upon Stilts (Harleian MS.)[43]
Caricature: Winged Devil (Cotton MS.)[43]
Duchess of Ancaster (after Hudson)[47]
Damask in Silk and Gold (Saracenic)[50]
Venetian Fabric (Thirteenth Century)[51]
London Promenade Dress, 1836[55]
Chat II.—The Tunic.
Tunic, Petticoat, and Girdle (Jutland)[62]
Hunefer and his Wife ("Book of the Dead," c. B.C. 1370)[63]
A Priest Burning Incense ("Book of the Dead")[65]
Plan of the Tunic[66]
The Tunic (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients")[67]
Greek Figure (Ibid.)[70]
Greek Figure (Ibid.)[71]
Treuthe's Pilgryme atte Plow (Trinity College, Cambridge)[75]
Anglo-Saxon Dress (Eighth Century)[76]
Chat III.—The Mantle.
Heading: The Imperial Coronation Mantle at Vienna[83]
Plan of the Toga[86]
The Toga (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients")[87]
Statue of Queen Matilda at Rochester[91]
Lord Burleigh (National Portrait Gallery)[93]
Lodowick, Duke of Richmond and Lennox[97]
Portion of the Picture of the Miracle of St. Bernard, Perugia[99]
Prince Henry, eldest son of James I.[103]
Earl of Rochester (National Portrait Gallery)[105]
Duke of Buckingham[107]
Chat IV.—The Doublet and Hose.
Heading: Italian Cassone (Fifteenth Century)[111]
Figure by Fiorenzo di Lorenzo, Perugia[113]
Paris on Mount Ida (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients")[115]
Anglo-Saxon Retainer (G. W. Rhead)[116]
Knightly Pastimes: Hawking, 1575[119]
Sir Thomas Gresham (National Portrait Gallery)[121]
Philip II. of Spain (National Portrait Gallery)[123]
Henry, Prince of Wales[125]
An Exquisite (from Jacquemin)[129]
Philippe de Vendôme[131]
Chat V.—The Kirtle or Petticoat.
The Close-fitting Jacket, temp. Edward III. (from Viollet le Duc)[137]
A Lady of Basle (Holbein)[139]
The Children of Charles I.[143]
Miss Lewis[145]
The Gamut of Love (Watteau)[147]
Madame de Mouchy[151]
Walking Dress, 1810[152]
Promenade Costume, 1833[154]
Paris Evening Dress, 1833[155]
Chat VI.—The Rise and Fall of the Crinoline.
Heading: Figure from Jacquemin[159]
Queen Charlotte (after Gainsborough)[161]
Queen Elizabeth[163]
James I. and his Queen, Anne of Denmark[165]
Festal Dress, Otaheite[167]
Mary Queen of Scots and Darnley[169]
"Don't be afraid, my dear!"[171]
King and Mrs. Baddeley[173]
The Crinoletta Disfigurans (Punch)[177]
Chat VII.—Collars and Cuffs.
Henrietta, Marquise d'Entragues[182]
Henry IV. of France[185]
The Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia[187]
Son of the Painter Dirck de Vries[191]
Charles I. in three views[193]
Cravats[199]
Chat VIII.—Hats, Caps, and Bonnets.
Heading: Fools in a Morris Dance[205]
Mrs. Anne Warren (after Romney)[207]
Hunting Hat, Orcagna, Campo Santo, Pisa[210]
Hunting Hat (Ibid.)[210]
Figure with Long Net-caul (G. W. Rhead)[212]
Hat, Fra Angelico, Florence[213]
Hat (Ibid.)[213]
Heart-shaped Head-dress[216]
Horned Head-dress[216]
Francis Bacon[219]
Thomas Killigrew[221]
The Development of the Pot Hat[223]
Robert Devereux, second Earl of Essex[225]
Letitia Bonaparte, mother of Napoleon[228]
Anne Day[229]
Two of the Wigginses (Gillray)[230]
Parisian Head-dresses for 1812[231]
Fool's Cap of Leather, German (S.K.M.)[233]
Chat IX.—The Dressing of the Hair, Moustachios, and Beard.
Heading: Comb (Italian, Fourteenth Century)[237]
Assyrian Bas-relief[238]
Bearded Bacchus (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients")[239]
Greek Head-dresses (Ibid.)[241]
Roman Head-dresses (Ibid.)[243]
Head-dress from Viollet le Duc (Fifteenth Century)[248]
A Painted Face (Roxburghe Ballads)[251]
Wig, Egyptian, B.C. 1500 (British Museum)[254]
Beau Fielding[257]
Hyacinthe Rigaud[259]
Ridiculous Taste; or, The Lady's Absurdity[261]
The French Lady in London[263]
Head-dress (from Jacquemin)[264]
Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, and the Dauphin[269]
A Reigning Monarch[272]
Philip IV. of Spain[273]
Chat X.—Boots, Shoes, and other Coverings for the Feet.
Heading: Shoes (Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries)[281]
Clog or Patten[282]
Roman Sandals (Hope's "Costume of the Ancients")[285]
Sandals of Italian Peasantry[286]
Lords John and Bernard Stuart[287]
Shoes, French (Fifteenth and Seventeenth Centuries)[290]
Shoes, German (Sixteenth Century)[291]
Shoes (Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, Musée de Cluny)[293]
Carved Wooden Shoe, French (Seventeenth Century)[294]
Shoe, Dutch Officer of Guards, 1662[296]
Shoe of a Musketeer, 1697[296]
Top Boot, Louis XIII., 1611[297]
Top Boot, Comte de Soissons, 1628[298]
Bravoes (Martin Schongauer)[299]

[BIBLIOGRAPHY]