In-Door Gardening for Every Week in the Year / Showing the Most Successful Treatment for all Plants Cultivated in the Greenhouse, Conservatory, Stove, Pit, Orchid, and Forcing-house

by gardener William Keane

FORCING-HOUSES.

Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable never to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to get too far exhausted,

but in that medium state when the strong fermentation has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in it for some time. The temperature to be kept from 60° to 65°, with the admission of air for several hours daily.

Cherries.—Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived at, or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but little attention will be necessary, still that little will be required to keep them clear of insects and of the leaves as they become sufficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be removed, and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. Remove them without further delay, if not already done, as advised in the early part of the month, to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted; or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they should be protected from its icy grasp.

Figs.—Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.

Melons.—Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening the late fruit, they will in some places still require the assistance of a good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of the day.

Peaches.—Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended for Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be planted in the place of any that may be worn out. The choice should be made of young trees that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too crowded; but if the summer pruning, as frequently advised, have been properly done, but very little, if any, will be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees in the early houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them gently with a few pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from insects.

Pines.—Persevere in former directions as to general routine management. Whilst fine weather continues air may be given liberally; and shut up earlier in the afternoon

to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk temperature, both at top and bottom, from 65° to 70° at night, allowing it to rise to 80° on sunny days with a steady bottom heat of about 80°. When watering is necessary let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted in the summer months should now be shifted, if they have grown freely; they should then be plunged in a brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any remaining suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged in a brisk heat in the nursing pit.

Vines.—The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it is intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, that sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the buds to become more plump and prominent. The border of the early house to be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in some situations to cover the borders of the houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late, to prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Continue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or tainted berries; applying gentle fires only when necessary to expel damps, with a free circulation of air—as a warm, close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as the fruit is gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any shoots to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared; the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and cut out every decayed berry.