It will be unnecessary to repeat hereafter the method of planing, as the student by this time should have learned to plane the pieces properly to dimensions.
After the material has been planed, mark the piece to the desired lengths as shown in [Fig. 65], and saw off the pieces square on the ends. Use the knife to mark the lines. In sawing, care must be taken to saw on the right side of the line, for the saw will cut out its own thickness and reduce the length of the piece that much if the piece is sawed on the wrong side of the line.
Fig. 65.
Leave the tenon piece about ⅛ inch longer than the drawing calls for so that the tenon will protrude through and be finished off even with the mortise piece.
Fig. 66.
Proceed to lay out the work. Take the mortise piece, which is 6 inches long, and mark the distance from one end (6″-1½″ = 4½″.) 4½″ / 2 = ⁹/₂ × ½ = ⁹/₄ or 2¼″; locate the first point on the face edge; then measure from this point the width of the tenon piece, which is 1½″. Through the points just found draw the lines square to the face side. Place the square against the face edge and mark (on the opposite edge on the corner), a small cut for both lines ([see Fig. 66]) and square from the face side across the edge; lay the piece aside; take the tenon piece and point off the distance from the end of the piece to the shoulder, and mark across the face and back, using the square and the knife in marking. Prepare the shoulder lines for the back-saw, as shown in [Fig. 53], taking care that the notch is cut on the right side of the line.
Take the gauge and set it to the distance from the face side to the first side of the mortise, and gauge the lines for the mortise on both edges; gauge the lines for the tenon. (This is for a single gauge.) Take the mortise chisel, [Fig. 67], and make a mark from this line ([see Fig. 68]), which will give the thickness of the tenon and the width of the mortise; set the gauge out to the width and gauge the rest of the lines.
