After the pieces are sawed out, proceed to lay out the lines by which the rail is to be worked out. The templet [E, Fig. 122], is used to obtain the perpendicular and the horizontal lines, from which is drawn the rectangle that is seen on the end of the rail, ([in Fig. 133],) and the templet seen on the right ([in Fig. 133]) is used to obtain the curved lines on the top. Work off the surplus stock on each side of the rectangle with the draw knife and the spokeshave, then work off the top and the bottom, taking care to make a graceful curve on the top and the bottom. Then mark the shape of the rail on the end and work out.
In [Fig. 134] is seen the finished twist developed from the pieces shown at [Fig. 133].
Fig. 134.
NOTES.
TO DISSOLVE SHELLAC.
Put gum shellac into a glass or earthen vessel (a wooden box coated inside with glue makes a very good vessel in which to dissolve shellac), and pour over it alcohol enough to cover the shellac; keep stirring it until no lumps remain. This will take from two to three hours, according to quantity. If left in a tin can the shellac becomes very dark. To clear it when dark add a little oxalic acid and stir until cleared.
TO POLISH WITH SHELLAC.
Dissolve shellac in 90 per cent alcohol. Stir for two hours, though not continually; do not allow it to stand long enough for lumps to settle. After the shellac is dissolved the polish is ready for use.
Now take a piece of old soft woolen material, and form it into a ball about the size of an egg in a way to permit the lower side to remain smooth. On the latter pour about from one half to one thimbleful of the polish. Around the whole put a four-cornered piece of old linen about 10 × 13 inches, and fold it around the ball just as you have done with the woolen cloth but in such a way that you can hold it by the end of the goods. On the smooth side put a few drops of linseed oil, and then begin to polish the surface with a light and even pressure in a circular movement from one side to the other, forward and backward, until the entire surface receives a slight covering of polish. When the work becomes more difficult the ball requires moistening by a few drops of oil; at the same time put a few drops of oil on the plate, and the ball will move easily again. You must observe the work constantly. If everything is in order the plate as well as the ball will keep clean, but if the ball sticks to the plate and gets smeary then you will know that the polish is too thick and must be thinned with alcohol, which you are to put on the woolen cloth, previously removing the linen and putting it back on the other side; that is, turn the linen rag before putting it back on the ball. After having polished it sufficiently so that all the pores of the wood are filled and the surface has a nice gloss, put another soft linen rag around the ball, and moisten it with a few drops of alcohol; again polish as before until the flat surface has a high grade of smoothness and gloss and all the greasy appearance has disappeared. You must be very careful, however, to apply but a few drops of alcohol and to press these into the ball as well as possible; otherwise the strength of it may dissolve the polish in some places entirely. When at last the ball leaves but weak traces, then polish fast with strong strokes forward and backward until the ball is completely dry and the surface of the wood very glossy.